The mountains of South-West Shropshire are less known to the
lovers of fine scenery than their great beauty deserves, though
they are familiar to most geologists as the typical region of the
lowest fossil-bearing deposits. Of this group of hills the
highest is the Long Mynd, a mountain district of very remarkable
character, and many miles in extent. It is about ten miles
long, and from three to four miles in breadth. Its summit
is a wide expanse of table land, the highest part of which is
nearly seventeen hundred feet above the level of the sea.
The whole of this unenclosed moorland is covered with gorse and
heather, making it extremely gay in the summer time; it is also
tolerably abundant in grouse and black game, and so fruitful in
bilberries, that from £400 to £500 worth are said to
have been gathered on it in the course of a single season.
On first hearing it, this sounds an improbable statement; but any
one who has been upon the mountain in a good “whinberry
season” as it is called, will readily understand that this
is no exaggeration. To the poor people for miles around,
the “whinberry picking” is the great event of the
year. The whole family betake themselves to the hill with
the early morning, carrying with them their provisions for the
day; and not unfrequently a kettle to prepare tea forms part of
their load. I know no more picturesque sight than that
presented by the summit of the Long Mynd towards
four o’clock on an August afternoon, when numerous fires
are lit among the heather, and as many kettles steaming away on
the top of them, while noisy, chattering groups of women and
children are clustered round, glad to rest after a hard
day’s work. A family will pick many quarts of
bilberries in the day, and as these are sold at prices varying
from 3d. to 5d. a quart, it will be readily understood that it is
by no means impossible that the large sum of £400 or
£500 should thus be realised in a single season.
The appearance of this Long Mynd mountain on the northern
side, looking towards Shrewsbury, presents no feature of striking
interest, and the ascent is a gradual one, leading chiefly
through cultivated ground; but the aspect of the south-eastern or
Stretton side is wild in the extreme, the whole face
of the mountain being broken up into deep ravines, with
precipitous sides, where purple rocks project boldly through the
turf, and in many places even the active sheep and mountain
ponies can scarcely find a footing. Down each of these
ravines runs a small stream of exquisitely pure water, one of
which, near the entrance of the valley, becomes considerable
enough to turn a mill for carding wool. This stream falls
over rocks at the head of the ravine, in a small cascade of a
considerable height called the Light Spout.
Many people have lost their lives among these hills at
different times, and places here and there bear such suggestive
names, as “Dead Man’s Beach,” “Dead
Man’s Hollow,” &c. The last fair, too,
which is held at Church Stretton before Christmas is locally
known as “Dead Man’s Fair,” several men
have perished whilst attempting to return home after it across
the hill in the dark November night. No one, however, till
this winter has been lost for many years. Two drovers were
the last persons who perished here, and they lost their lives
near a place called “The Thresholds,” in a deep snow
which fell in April thirty-seven years ago.
The western slope of the Long Mynd is less strikingly
picturesque and more desolate, but the view from the top in this
direction is the finest of any. Almost unseen in a narrow
valley at the foot of the mountain, stand the village and church
of Ratlinghope, the centre of a parish numbering about three
hundred souls only, but which stretches over miles of mountain
country, embracing a portion of the wild mining district of the
Stiper Stones. Beyond these hills the eye passes to the Welsh mountains, and rests at last on the grand
peaks of Cader Idris in one direction, and Snowdon in the other,
which may be seen in clear weather sharply defined against a
sunset sky.
Poor Ratlinghope was in sore need of some one to look after it
when the living was offered to me in September 1856. It had
at that time been left for many Sundays together without a
service, the late incumbent residing in Shrewsbury, twelve miles
distant, and being frequently prevented by ill health from coming
over. There is no house in the parish where a clergyman
could live, or even procure tolerable lodgings; and if there
were, there is next to nothing, as one of the parishioners said
to me the other day, “to find coals to warm it
with.” It is scarcely to be wondered at that under
these circumstances, when the living became vacant in
the summer of 1856, there was no suitable person to be found who
was willing to accept so desirable a piece of preferment.
The parish of Wolstaston, of which I have the charge, and in
which I reside, is situated on high ground on the eastern slope
of the Long Mynd, i.e. exactly on the opposite side of the
mountain to Ratlinghope. Above Wolstaston the ground rises
steadily for about a mile and a half till you come to the
unenclosed moorland, which stretches away for many miles of open
country, covered with heather and gorse. It was under the
circumstances that I have already mentioned that the living of
Ratlinghope was offered to me. I was aware that it would be
impossible to attend to the parish as one would wish to do, with
four miles of this wild hill country to cross between the two
villages. Still, as no one else could be found to take it,
and I thought that the Ratlinghope people might think
that “half-a-loaf was better than no bread,” I
consented to accept the living, and do the best I could for it;
so I altered my second service at Wolstaston from three
o’clock in the afternoon to six, which enabled me to give
an afternoon service at Ratlinghope every Sunday.
I soon found, however, that the task I had undertaken was no
very light one, as the only access from Wolstaston to Ratlinghope
was by mountain tracks, over the highest part of the Long Mynd,
unless indeed one drove round the base of the hill, a distance of
at least twelve miles. The ride was pleasant enough in fine
weather, but less enjoyable when fogs hung heavy over the hill,
when the tracks were slippery with ice, or when falling snow
concealed every landmark. It not unfrequently happened in
winter, when the snow was very deep, or much
drifted, that it was impossible to ride across the hill, and the
expedition then had to be performed on foot; still I always
managed to cross somehow, in spite of wind or weather, so that
during the last eight years and a half the little mountain church
has never been without one Sunday service. I find that
during that time I have crossed the Long Mynd (in round numbers)
nearly two thousand five hundred times; consequently my knowledge
of the country became so intimate, that I felt equally at home
upon the hill in all weathers, and at all hours of the day and
night. On one occasion, I had to cross it late on a
November night and in a dense fog, when returning home from
Ratlinghope, and met with no accident; and I think that this and
similar experiences made me somewhat over confident. I
mention this to show how little the
most perfect acquaintance with country will avail any one when
overtaken by such a blinding snow storm as that of the 29th of
January last.
During the preceding week the snow fell heavily, and
accumulated on the hills to a greater depth than had been known
for fifty-one years. Public opinion was unanimous that
there had been nothing like it since 1814. A strong wind,
moreover, had so drifted it that the roads were impassable, and
the communication between neighbouring villages, and even between
houses in the same village, almost ceased. Letters wont to
be received in the morning arrived late in the day, or not at
all; and unhappy folk who were unprovided with a good store of
food and coals had either to borrow of their neighbours or
starve. The morning service at Wolstaston on Sunday the
29th was of necessity but thinly attended, and it seemed
probable that I should not even be expected at Ratlinghope.
As, however, the service there had never been omitted owing to
bad weather, I was anxious to get to my little church if
possible; in fact, I considered it my duty to make the attempt,
though I felt very doubtful whether I should succeed.
Accordingly, very soon after morning service at Wolstaston was
over, I started on the expedition. I was in such a hurry to
be off that I could not stay to take my usual luncheon, but
swallowed a few mouthfuls of soup, and put a small flask
containing about three ounces of brandy in my pocket. My
taking anything of the kind with me was a most unprecedented
circumstance. I only remember one other occasion in which I
did so, and that was also in a very deep snow; but now foreseeing
a walk of no common difficulty, I thought the precaution
a wise one, and saw reason afterwards to be thankful that I had
adopted it.
I started on horseback, though I knew that I could only ride a
short distance, but thought it advisable to save myself all
unnecessary fatigue. I was of course accompanied by a
servant to bring back the horses when they were of no further
use. By leaving the lane and making our way across the
fields over hedge and ditch, we contrived to ride about half a
mile. The horses then became useless, as the drifts were so
deep against the hedges and gates, that the poor animals became
imbedded in them, and were unable to find any firm footing to
leap from. The servant therefore had to return with them
long before I reached the unenclosed mountain land, and I
proceeded on my way alone.
The journey proved more difficult even than I had
expected. The snow was for the most part up to the knees
and very soft, and the drifts were so deep that they could only
be crossed by crawling on hands and knees, as any one will
readily understand who has attempted to cross deep snow when in a
soft state. When I reached the open moorland the day was
bright and fine, and the snow stretched around me for miles in a
dazzling expanse very painful to the eyes, and unbroken by track,
landmark, or footprint of any living creature. The form of
the country, however, was a sufficient guide to my destination,
and after a severe struggle over and through the drifts, I
reached my little church at a quarter-past three o’clock,
just two hours and a quarter from the time I had left
Wolstaston. A few people were assembled together, though no
one had really expected me, and after a short
service I started on my homeward journey, having refused the
invitations of my kind people to stay the night amongst them, as
I was anxious to get back to Wolstaston in time for my six
o’clock evening service, and I did not anticipate that I
should encounter any greater difficulties in my return home than
I had done in coming to Ratlinghope.
During the three quarters of an hour, however, that we had
been in church, the aspect of the weather had completely
changed. A furious gale had come on from E.S.E., which, as
soon as I got on the open moorland, I found was driving clouds of
snow and icy sleet before it. It was with considerable
difficulty that I made my way up the western ascent of the hill,
as I had to walk in the teeth of this gale. The force of
the wind was most extraordinary. I have been
in many furious gales, but never in anything to compare with
that, as it took me off my legs, and blew me flat down upon the
ground over and over again. The sleet too was most painful,
stinging one’s face, and causing such injury to the eyes,
that it was impossible to lift up one’s head. I
contrived, however, to fight my way through it, and at length
reached the crest of the hill. Though I could not see many
yards in any direction, I knew at this time exactly where I was,
as I passed the carcase of a mountain pony which I had previously
noticed. The poor thing had no doubt been famished to
death, and was fast wasting to a skeleton. Numbers of these
hardy little animals have perished during the severe weather from
hunger, having been previously reduced to the lowest condition
through lack of pasturage during the dry season of
1864. One man, who owned fourteen of them, has lost every
one.
Leaving this solitary waymark, the half buried skeleton, by
which I had rested for a few minutes and taken a little of my
brandy, I started again, having first made a careful observation
of the direction in which I should go. After a further
struggle across the level summit of the hill, I reached my second
landmark, a pool in a little hollow between the hills, which is
well known to the inhabitants of the district, and interesting to
naturalists, as the resort of curlews and other rare birds; here
again I took a short rest, and then started upon what I fondly
dreamed would be the last difficult stage of my journey.
My way from the pool lay first up a steep ascent for rather
less than half a mile to the top of the hill, and then across a level flat for some three or four hundred
yards, when a fir plantation would be reached at the edge of the
enclosed ground. Once within the friendly shelter of those
firs, I knew that the remainder of my walk, though still tedious
and fatiguing, would be comparatively easy. It pleased God,
however, that I should never reach them that night.
Doubtless I had been too confident in my own powers, and at the
very time when I thought the difficulties and dangers of my task
were well nigh accomplished, I was taught a lesson which I shall
remember to the latest hour of my life. I ascended the hill
to the flat already spoken of, though it was a very slow process,
for owing to the depth of the drifts, which were now increasing
rapidly, and the force of the wind, I was compelled to crawl a
great part of the way. The storm now came on, if possible,
with increased fury. It was quite impossible to
look up or see for a yard around, and the snow came down so thick
and fast that my servant, who had come some distance up the lane
from Wolstaston in hopes of seeing something of me, describing it
to me afterwards, said, “Sir, it was just as if they were
throwing it on to us out of buckets.” I fought on
through it, however, expecting soon to come to the fir
wood. On and on I went, but not a glimpse of its friendly
shelter could I see, the real fact being that I had borne away a
great deal too much to the right, almost at right angles to my
proper course. Having been blown down over and over again,
I had probably, in rising to my feet, altered my direction
unconsciously. The wind too, by which I had been trying to
steer, proved a treacherous compass; for, as I have been told,
about this time it went more round into the south.
It was, moreover, becoming very dark. After a while I
became aware that the ground under my feet was of a wrong shape,
sloping downwards when it should have been level, and I then knew
that I had missed my way. This, however, gave me no great
uneasiness, as I imagined that I had only gone a little too much
to the south of the wood, and that I should soon reach an
inhabited district at the bottom of it, known as Bullock’s
Moor, from which a somewhat circuitous route would bring me
safely home. Under this impression I walked cheerfully on,
but only for a few steps further. Suddenly my feet flew
from under me, and I found myself shooting at a fearful pace down
the side of one of the steep ravines which I had imagined lay far
away to my right. I thought to check myself by putting my
stick behind me, and bearing heavily upon it in the
manner usual under such circumstances in Alpine travelling.
Before, however, I could do so I came in contact with something
which jerked it out of my hand and turned me round, so that I
continued my tremendous glissade head downwards, lying on my
back.
The pace I was going in this headlong descent must have been
very great, yet it seemed to me to occupy a marvellous space of
time, long enough for the events of my whole previous life to
pass in review before me, as I had often before heard that they
did in moments of extreme peril. I never lost my
consciousness, but had time to think much of those I should leave
behind me, expecting every moment as I did to be dashed over the
rocks at the bottom of the ravine; knew in fact that such must
be my fate, unless I could stop myself by some
means. Owing to the softness of the snow, I contrived to
accomplish this by kicking my foot as deep into the snow as I
could, and at the same time bending my knee with a smart muscular
effort, so as to make a hook of my leg; this brought me to a
stand still, but my position was anything but agreeable even
then, hanging head downwards on a very steep part, and never
knowing any moment but what I might start again. With much
difficulty, however, I at length succeeded in getting myself the
right way up, and then descended with great care to the bottom of
the ravine, intending if possible to walk along the course of the
stream in its hollow till it should lead me to the enclosed
country. The ravine, however, was so choked up with snow,
that to walk along the valley was utterly impossible. The drifts were many feet over my head, in several
places they must have been at least twenty feet in depth; and
having once got into them, I had the greatest difficulty, by
scratching and struggling, to extricate myself from them
again. It was now dark. I did not know into which of
the ravines I had fallen, for at this part there is a complete
network of them intersecting each other in every direction.
The only way by which I had thought to escape was hopelessly
blocked up, and I had to face the awful fact that I was lost
among the hills, should have to spend the night there, and that,
humanly speaking, it was almost impossible that I could survive
it.
The instinct of self-preservation, however, is strong, even
when a fearful death seems close at hand, and there were others
for whose sake, even more than my own, I desired that
night that my life might be spared, if such were God’s
will. I knew that, under Providence, all depended on my own
powers of endurance, and that the struggle for life must be a
very severe one. The depth of the snow made walking a very
exhausting effort. It was always up to my knees, more often
up to my waist; but my only chance, as I was well aware, was to
keep moving; and having extricated myself at last from the drifts
in the ravine, I began to climb the opposite side of the hill,
though I had not the least idea in which direction I ought to
go. As I made my way upwards, I saw just in front of me
what looked like a small shadow flitting about, for owing to the
white ground it was never completely dark. I was much
surprised at this, especially as when I came close to it, it
disappeared into the snow, with the exception of
one round dark spot, which remained motionless. I put my
hand down upon this dark object to ascertain what it could
possibly be, and found that I had got hold of a hare’s
head! I saw many of these little animals in the course of
the night. They made holes in the snow for shelter, and sat
in them well protected by their warm coats, happier far than
their human fellow-sufferer, who knew that for him there must be
no rest that night if he would see the light of another day.
Having climbed the hill, I walked along its crest for some
distance, till suddenly I again lost my footing, and shot down
the hill, as far as I can judge, on the opposite side into
another ravine. This was, if possible, a more fearful
glissade than my previous one; it was a very precipitous place,
and I was whirled round and round in my descent,
sometimes head first, sometimes feet first, and again sideways,
rolling over and over, till at last, by clutching at the gorse
bushes, and digging my feet into the snow as before, I once more
managed to check my wild career, and bring myself to a stand; but
I had lost my hat and a pair of warm fur gloves, which I had on
over a pair of old dogskins. The loss of these fur gloves
proved very serious to me, as my hands soon began to get so
numbed with the cold, that they were comparatively useless.
At the bottom of the ravine into which I had now fallen, I
found myself again involved in snow drifts, and had still more
difficulty than before in getting out of them. I had
tumbled into a very soft one far over my head, and had to fight,
and scratch, and burrow for a long time before I could extricate
myself, and became more exhausted than at any
other time during the night. I only ventured to take my
brandy very sparingly, wishing to husband it as much as possible,
and there was but a very tiny drop left. My hands, as I
have said, were so numbed with cold as to be nearly
useless. I had the greatest difficulty in holding the
flask, or in eating snow for refreshment, and could hardly get my
hands to my mouth for the masses of ice which had formed upon my
whiskers, and which were gradually developed into a long crystal
beard, hanging half way to my waist. Icicles likewise had
formed about my eyes and eyebrows, which I frequently had to
break off, and my hair had frozen into a solid block of
ice. After the loss of my hat, my hair must, I suppose,
have become filled with snow, while I was overhead in the
drifts. Probably this was partially melted by the warmth of
my head, and subsequently converted into ice by the
intense frost. Large balls of ice also formed upon my
cuffs, and underneath my knees, which encumbered me very much in
walking, and I had continually to break them off. I tried
to supply the place of my hat by tying my handkerchief over my
head, but found that by no possible effort could I make a knot,
and that I could only keep it on my head by holding the corners
between my teeth. It was equally impossible to refasten my
overcoat, only a thin tweed (for I had dressed lightly, in
expectation of hard exercise), which had become unbuttoned in my
last fall. It may seem absurd to mention it, but the
cravings of hunger grew so keen, stimulated as they were by the
cold and the great exertion, that it actually occurred to me
whether I could eat one of my old dogskin gloves. I was,
however, deterred from making the attempt, partly by
the prospect of its toughness, and partly by the fear of greater
injury to my hands from frost bite, if they were deprived of
their last covering. My exhaustion was so great that I fell
down every two or three steps, and the temptation to give in and
lie down in the snow became almost irresistible, and had to be
struggled against with every power of mind and body. I
endeavoured to keep constantly before me the certain fact, that
if sleep once overcame me I should never wake again in this
life. The night seemed interminably long. Again and
again I tried to calculate the time, but always came to the same
conclusion, that many hours must elapse before the return of
daylight. The wind had gone down, and the stillness became
so oppressive, that I often spoke aloud for the sake of hearing
my own voice, and to ascertain that the cold, which was
intense, had not deprived me of the power of speech. The
hares still sported and burrowed on the hill sides, but excepting
these there were no signs of life whatever.
Never did shipwrecked mariner watch for the morning more
anxiously than did I through that weary, endless night, for I
knew that a glimpse of the distance in any one direction would
enable me to steer my course homewards. Day dawned at last,
but hope and patience were to be yet further tried, for a dense
fog clung to the face of the hill, obscuring everything but the
objects close at hand. Furthermore, I discovered that I was
rapidly becoming snow blind. My eyes, which had been
considerably injured already by the sharp sleet of the evening
before, were further affected by the glare of the snow, and I was
fast losing all distinctness of vision. I first learned the
extent of this new calamity when
endeavouring, with the earliest light, to look at my watch.
It was a work of great difficulty to get it out of my pocket; and
when this was done, I found that I could not tell the face from
the back. The whole thing was hazy and indistinct, and I
can only describe it as looking like an orange seen through a
mist. Such sight as remained rapidly became all confusion
as regarded the form, colour, and proportion of objects.
Again and again I thought I saw before me trees and enclosures,
but these, when I came up to them, invariably turned out to be
only portions of gorse bushes projecting through the snow.
My optical delusions as to colour were perhaps the most
remarkable; the protruding rocks invariably appeared of a strange
orange yellow, with black lines along them, producing a short of
tortoise-shell effect. I took these mysterious appearances
at first for dead animals, ponies or sheep, and touched
them to try to ascertain the fact. My hands, however, were
so utterly devoid of sensation, that they were of no more use
than my eyes in identifying objects. I was therefore quite
in the dark as to their nature, till experience proved them to be
rocks with tufts of heather on them. Owing to my failing
eyesight, my falls became very frequent, and several of them were
from heights so great that it would scarcely be believed were I
to attempt to describe them. I may, however, say, that they
were such as perfectly to appal those who, a few days afterwards,
visited the spots where they occurred, and saw the deep
impressions in the snow where I had plunged into it from the
rocks above. One fall especially I well remember. I
had just crossed the ridge of a hill, and saw, as I imagined,
close below me a pool covered with ice, which
seemed free from snow. I thought I would walk across this,
and, accordingly, made a slight jump from the rock on which I
stood in order to reach it. In a moment, however, I
discovered that, instead of on to a pool, I had jumped into empty
space. I must have fallen on this occasion a considerable
distance, but I was caught in a deep snow-drift, so that,
although considerably shaken and bewildered for the moment by
what had happened, I was not seriously hurt.
I have been enabled by various circumstances, and by the help
of those who followed my tracks before the snow melted, to make
out with tolerable accuracy the course of my wanderings.
Those who tracked me say that, “If there was one part of
the hill more difficult and dangerous than another, that is the
line which Mr. Carr took.” When the
morning light first dawned, I could see that I was walking along
the side of a ravine of great depth, and more than usually
perpendicular sides; it was so steep that I could not climb to
the top of the ridge and get out of it, and the snow was in such
a very loose, soft state, that I expected every moment it would
give way beneath me, and I should be precipitated into the depths
below. I had to walk with the greatest care to prevent
this; and I believe that this was a very good thing for me, as it
gave my mind complete occupation, and kept me from
flagging. I could only go straight on, as I could not
ascend, and was afraid to descend. My method of progression
was more crawling than walking, as I had to drive my hands deep
into the snow, and clutch at tufts of grass or heather, or any
thing I could find beneath it, to hold on by. I must have
gone forward in this way for an hour or two, when I
found the ravine becoming less steep, and I heard the sound of
running water very distinctly. Accordingly I thought I
would descend and try once more whether I could walk down the
stream, as this by its sound seemed a larger one, and I thought
it might have cut a way through the drifts. I reached the
bottom of the valley safely. It appears to have been the
valley immediately above the Light Spout waterfall, and, trying
to walk by the stream, I tumbled over the first upper fall.
Hearing a noise of falling water, and seeing dimly rocks all
round me, I found it would not do to go forward in this
direction, so, having unconsciously gone to the very edge of the
lower cascade, where I must in all probability have been killed
had I fallen over, I turned sharply up the hill again, going over
the rocks above, and coming down again by a very steep
place. Round and round this waterfall I seemed to have
climbed in every possible direction. A man who had tracked
me, and with whom I visited the place a few weeks ago, said,
“You seem to have had a deal o’ work to do here,
Sir,” pointing to a small rocky space at the bottom of the
fall. I had imagined, while thus going round and round as
if on a tread mill, that I was walking straight forward down the
stream, and I suppose my efforts to keep near the sound of the
water misled me. Though perfectly familiar with this part
of the Long Mynd, I was so blind at this time, and everything
looked so strange, that I did not in the least recognise my
position. Finding I did not get on very well, I determined
now to try whether I could walk or crawl down the actual stream
itself where it had hollowed its way underneath the drifts
which overhung it, making a sort of low-arched tunnel, which I
thought worth trying. I soon found, however, that this was
quite impracticable, and that if I went on I should either be
suffocated or hopelessly imbedded in the snow, and that then my
utmost efforts would fail to extricate me. It also occurred
to me somewhat painfully, that if I lost my life, as I thought I
inevitably must do now, my body would not be found for days, or
it might be weeks, if it were buried deep in the mountain of snow
at the bottom of that valley; and I was anxious that what
remained of me might be found soon, and that the dreadful
suspense, which is worse than the most fearful certainty, might
thus be spared to all those who cared about my fate.
I was not, however, quite beat yet; so, retracing my steps, I
determined once more to leave the stream and
make for the higher ground. But a new misfortune now befell
me: I lost my boots. They were strong laced boots, without
elastic sides, or any such weak points about them. I had
observed before that one was getting loose, but was unable to do
anything to it from the numbness of my hands; and after
struggling out of a deep drift previous to reascending the hill,
I found that I had left this boot behind. There was nothing
for it but to go on without, and as my feet were perfectly numbed
from the cold, and devoid of feeling, I did not experience any
difficulty or pain on this account. That boot was
afterwards found on a ledge of rock near the waterfall. I
soon after lost the other one, or rather, I should say, it came
off, and I could not get it on again, so I carried it in my hand
some time, but lost it in one of my many severe
falls. The fact of the loss of my boots has astonished all
those who have heard of it, and I believe has excited more
comment than any other part of my adventure. I have even
heard of its being a matter of fierce dispute, on more than one
occasion, whether laced boots could come off in this
way. They do not seem to have become unlaced, as the laces
were firmly knotted, but had burst in the middle, and the whole
front of the boot had been stretched out of shape from the strain
put upon it whilst laboriously dragging my feet out of deep
drifts for so many hours together, which I can only describe as
acting upon the boots like a steam-power boot-jack.
And so for hours I walked on in my stockings without
inconvenience. Even when I trod upon gorse bushes, I did
not feel it, as my feet had become as insensible as
my hands. It had occurred to me now that I might be in the
Carding Mill valley, and that I would steer my course on that
supposition. It was fortunate that I did so, for I was
beginning to think that I could not now hold out much longer, and
was struggling in a part where the drifts were up nearly to my
neck, when I heard what I had thought never to hear
again—the blessed sound of human voices, children’s
voices, talking and laughing, and apparently sliding not very far
off. I called to them with all my might, but judge of my
dismay when sudden and total silence took the place of the merry
voices I had so lately heard! I shouted again and again,
and said that I was lost, but there was no reply. It was a
bitter disappointment, something like that of the sailor
shipwrecked on a desert island, who sees a sail approaching and thinks that he is saved, when as he gazes the vessel
shifts her course and disappears on the horizon, dashing his
hopes to the ground. It appeared, as I learned afterwards,
that these children saw me, though I could not see them,
and ran away terrified at my unearthly aspect. Doubtless
the head of a man protruding from a deep snow drift, crowned and
bearded with ice like a ghastly emblem of winter, was a sight to
cause a panic among children, and one cannot wonder that they ran
off to communicate the news that “there was the bogie in
the snow.” Happily, however, for the bogie, he had
noticed the direction from which these voices came, and
struggling forward again, I soon found myself sufficiently near
to the Carding Mill to recognise the place, blind as I was.
A little girl now ventured to approach me, as, true to the
instincts of her nature, the idea dawned upon her that
I was no goblin of the mountains, no disagreeable thing from a
world beneath popped up through the snow, but a real
fellow-creature in distress. I spoke to her and told her
that I was the clergyman of Ratlinghope, and had been lost in the
snow on the hill all night. As she did not answer at once,
I suppose she was taking a careful observation of me, for after a
few moments she said, “Why, you look like Mr. Carr of
Wolstaston.” “I am Mr. Carr,” I replied;
whereupon the boys, who had previously run away, and, as I
imagine, taken refuge behind the girl, came forward and helped me
on to the little hamlet, only a few yards distant, where some
half dozen cottages are clustered together round the Carding
Mill.
I was saved, at any rate, from immediate peril, though I fully
expected that serious illness must follow from
my violent exertions and long exposure. I was saved at all
events from the death of lonely horror against which I had
wrestled so many hours in mortal conflict, and scarcely knew how
to believe that I was once more among my fellow-men, under a
kindly, hospitable roof. God’s hand had led me
thither. No wisdom or power of my own could have availed
for my deliverance, when once my sight was so much gone.
The Good Shepherd had literally, in very deed, led the blind by a
way that he knew not to a refuge of safety and peace.
The good kind people at the Carding Mill, you may be sure,
soon gathered round me in sympathising wonder, and I was quickly
supplied with such comforts as they could give. I told them
that I had had scarcely anything to eat since breakfast the day
before (as I had been too much hurried to eat my
luncheon before starting to Ratlinghope), and so tea and bread
and butter were at once provided. The former was very
grateful, but I could hardly eat the latter, as all feeling of
hunger had left me. The good people were much shocked to
find that I could not pick up a piece of bread and butter for
myself, as I could neither feel it nor see it; I believe they
thought my sight was hopelessly gone. I was, however, under
no uneasiness myself on this score, as I was perfectly familiar
with snow blindness, having seen cases of it in Switzerland, and
knew that in all probability my eyes would get quite right again
in a week’s time, as it turned out that they did.
They also discovered that the middle finger of my right hand was
terribly lacerated, and that the skin was completely stripped off
the back of it. This I knew to be a much more serious affair, as the frost had evidently got fast hold
of it, and I thought it very likely that I should lose it.
This, however, seemed a very trifling matter to me then.
Had it been my right arm I should have thought nothing of it,
after so marvellous an escape. I was provided at the
Carding Mill with a hat, boots, and dry stockings; and having
rested about a quarter of an hour, set out again to Church
Stretton, about a mile distant. A man from the cottage came
with me, and gave me his arm, and with this assistance I
accomplished the walk with comparative ease. I was so
anxious to get home, that I almost felt as if I could have walked
the whole way, though I do not suppose that I could really have
done so, my home being rather more than five miles off.
Arrived at the town, I sent my companion for medical assistance,
and myself made my way to the Crown
Inn. I could discern large objects sufficiently to find my
way along the street, though all was blurred and indistinct, and
the admission of light to my eyes was beginning to cause me
extreme pain. I ordered a fly immediately to take me as far
as possible on my road home. No vehicle of any description
had been along the turnpike road that day, and it was very
doubtful how far a fly could go, so it was arranged that we
should be accompanied by a man on a saddle horse, that I might
ride when the fly could go no further, as I knew that, under the
most favourable circumstances, the last mile and a half of the
road to Wolstaston would be inaccessible to wheels.
Of course my adventure excited great interest at the Crown
Hotel, when it was fully understood what had happened to
me. It was just two o’clock in the
afternoon when I reached that place, and as I had left
Ratlinghope at four o’clock on the previous afternoon, I
had been walking uninterruptedly for twenty-two hours, excepting
the quarter of an hour I had rested at the Carding Mill. My
good friends at the hotel discovered that my clothes were very
wet, for they had been frozen before and were now thawed, so I
was dressed up in the landlord’s garments. The effect
must have been very ludicrous, for he was a much stouter man than
I was at any time, and now I had shrunk away to nothing. It
will not therefore be wondered at that people when they saw me
declared they should not have known who I was.
The surgeon having come and dressed my finger, and warned me
to keep away from the fire and hot water, and having prescribed
some hot brandy and water, I started in my fly on my homeward
journey. Very slow was our progress. We had
taken spades with us, and many times the driver and the man who
accompanied him had to dig a way for the fly to get
through. Most trying was the long delay thus caused to a
man who knew that in his own home he must probably be reckoned
among the dead; but there was no help for it, and at last
Leebotwood was reached, the place where the lane to Wolstaston
turned off from the main road, and where I was to leave the fly,
and, as I hoped, ride home.
The Post Office is at Leebotwood, and having given orders
there that any letters coming from my house should be stopped, I
was helped on my horse, and, accompanied by the man, began to
ascend the hill. I had not gone a hundred yards, when it
became evident that it would be impossible to ride far, and that
I should be obliged to walk again, so the
horse was sent back to Leebotwood by a man whom we met, and I
started again on my own feet. Just at this time we met
another man coming down over the fields from Wolstaston. He
had letters with him to post; those letters were from my
home. They were to say that I had been lost in the snow
storm, that every effort had been made to find me, that they had
proved fruitless, and that there was no hope left. I sent
this messenger back again pretty quickly, and told him to go home
as fast as he could and say I was coming. This news reached
the village about half an hour before I could get up there
myself, and as may be supposed there was great rejoicing.
So completely had all hope of my safety been given up, that to my
people it seemed almost like a resurrection from the dead.
They had made the greatest efforts to find
me. Twice a party had gone up the hill on the Sunday night
to the limit of the enclosed ground, and stayed there calling and
shouting, till, as one of them said to me, they felt that if they
had stayed there another ten minutes, they would have been frozen
to death. The second time they went up that night, they
actually got on to the open moorland some two or three hundred
yards, but here they were in imminent danger of being lost
themselves. One of them indeed declared that he could not
return, and would have been lost had not his companions insisted
on his struggling back with them. Human effort could do no
more, and they made their toilsome way home prostrated with
fatigue.
It was a fearful moment, they tell me, when the Rectory house
was closed up for the night, the shutters fastened, and curtains
drawn, with the fate of its master unknown. The
helpless watchers could only wait and count the weary hours,
keeping food hot for the wanderer, who they feared would never
return, and unable till the morning to plan any further efforts
for his rescue. The awful wind raged on, sometimes assuming
to the ears of the excited listeners the sound of rolling wheels
and horses’ feet, startling them into expectation, though
they knew that the tramp of an army would have fallen noiseless
on that depth of snow. Then again, it rose like shrieks and
wild calls of distress, and every now and then would smite the
house with a buffet, as though it would level it with the
ground.
The storm lulled at length, as the hours went slowly by.
Morning came and the men prepared to resume their almost hopeless
search once more. They started, about twenty strong, armed
with spades and shovels, and determined
first of all to cut their way to Ratlinghope, thinking that
perhaps I had remained there all night. They worked with
all their might, but the snow was deeper than ever, and their
progress was laborious and very slow. Though they had
started as soon as it was light in the morning, they did not
reach Ratlinghope till noon, and then their last hope was dashed
to the ground, for they heard that I had started the
previous afternoon, though pressed to remain in the village for
the night. Great was the consternation of the Ratlinghope
people when they heard the news. They knew the hill well,
and said with one consent, “If Mr. Carr was on the Long
Mynd last night, he is a dead man.” This conviction
too was strengthened by the sad fact, that that very morning the
dead body of a man, whom we all knew well, had been found in the
road frozen to death, not more than one
hundred and fifty yards from a small hamlet in the parish of
Ratlinghope, known as “The Bridges.” Poor
Easthope, for such was his name, was a journeyman shoemaker by
trade. He owned a few ponies which were on the hill, and he
had been looking after these on the Sunday. I suppose he
was much exhausted by this, but he had safely reached his
daughter’s house in the evening, which he subsequently left
to go to the place where he worked, no great distance off.
He was found, as I have said, the next morning frozen to death on
the turnpike road. It is conjectured that he either sat
down to rest or fell down, and that he speedily became
insensible. I think this fact in itself is sufficient to
prove that, had I given way to the temptation to rest, I too
should have lost my life.
The searching party, reinforced by most of the
able-bodied men in Ratlinghope, beat that part of the hill lying
between Ratlinghope and Wolstaston thoroughly, thinking that I
must be somewhere in the tract between the two places, never
supposing that I could have wandered as far away as I actually
had done. The fog was so thick that it was only by keeping
near to each other and shouting constantly that this party was
able to keep together. I need not say that they failed to
discover any trace of me, and about three o’clock in the
afternoon, worn out and exhausted, they returned to the Rectory
with the worst tidings. “He must be dead,” they
said, “he must be dead; it is not possible that any
human creature could have lived through such a
night.” And it was upon the receipt of these tidings
that the letters were sent off which I so fortunately succeeded
in stopping. Half-an-hour after, the
news came that I was returning, and in another half-hour I was at
home. This was between four and five o’clock in the
afternoon, rather more than twenty-seven hours from the time I
had left Wolstaston.
My friends tell me that had they not known who it was, they
would scarcely have recognised me. Dressed in another
man’s clothes, exceedingly thin, with eyes fearfully
bloodshot, and fingers stiff and shrunken, the middle finger more
resembling a dead stick, they say, with the gray and wrinkled
bark on, than the living member of a human body, this is scarcely
to be wondered at. I was glad to go to bed at once, and to
have my feet and hands well rubbed with snow. This, it
should be well known, is the only thing to be done in cases of
frost bite. Had I put them in hot water, I should in all
probability have lost my fingers and toes; they would have
sloughed off. I know of several cases where this has
happened; indeed, I heard of one quite lately, for the gardener
of a friend of mine in Warwickshire had his hands frost-bitten
while throwing the snow off the roof of a house during this last
winter, and injudiciously putting them into hot water, the result
has been that he has lost the ends of all his fingers, to the
first joint. In my case, I am thankful to say I knew better
than to do this, and by the use of cold water and continued
friction have succeeded in restoring my hands in a great
measure. They have still not nearly as much sensation in
them as before, but this will return with time. During the
last few weeks, gorse pricks have been working out of my hands
and feet and legs by hundreds, though at first, from the numbness
of the skin, I was quite unconscious of them. It is not to
be wondered at that I should have picked
these up in great numbers whilst walking through the gorse bushes
without my boots, and clutching at them as I fell in hopes of
saving myself.
Such are the details of my “Night in the Snow,”
and my most wonderful preservation through it and the following
day. I trust that no one who may chance to read these pages
will ever be placed in a similar position; but should it so
happen, I hope that the remembrance of my adventure will occur to
them; for surely it teaches, as plainly as anything can, that
even in the most adverse circumstances no one need ever despair;
and shows how an individual of no unusual physical powers may, by
God’s help, resist the overwhelming temptation to sleep
which is usually so fatal to those who are lost in the snow.
lorimer and
chalmers, printers, edinburgh.