The one bumpy street of Springfield, despite its sparse crop of grass,
presents to this day a depressed appearance, a relic of the time when it
doubled up under a weight of thundering chariots. At the
well-remembered, notorious Queen's Head I stood in the gathering
gloaming, watching the road run yellow, until the last draggled hen had
spluttered through the pools to roost, and the mean row of whitewashed,
shrunken houses across the way had sunk into the sloppy ground, as they
have been doing slowly for half a century, or were carried away in a
rush of rain. Soaking weeds hung in lifeless bunches over the hedges of
spears that line the roads from Gretna; on sodden Canobie Lea, where
Lochinvar's steed would to-day have had to wade through yielding slush,
dirty piles of congealed snow were still reluctant to be gone; and
gnarled tree trunks, equally with palings that would have come out of
the ground with a sloppy gluck, showed a dank and cheerless green.
Yesterday the rooks dinned the air, and the parish of Gretna witnessed
such a marrying and giving in marriage as might have flung it back fifty
years. Elsewhere such a solemn cawing round the pulpit on the tree tops
would denote a court of justice, but in the vicinity of Springfield, it
may be presumed, the thoughts of the very rooks run on matrimony.
A little while ago Willum Lang, a postman's empty letter-bag on his
back, and a glittering drop trembling from his nose, picked his way
through the puddles, his lips pursed into a portentous frown, and his
grey head bowed professionally in contemplation of a pair of
knock-knee'd but serviceable shanks. A noteworthy man Willum, son of
Simon, son of David, grandson by marriage of Joseph Paisley, all famous
"blacksmiths" of Gretna Green. For nigh a century Springfield has marked
time by the Langs, and still finds "In David Lang's days" as forcible as
"when Plancus was consul." Willum's predecessors in office reserved
themselves for carriage runaways, and would shake the lids from their
coffins if they knew that Willum had to marry the once despised
"pedestrians." "Even Elliot," David Lang would say, "could join couples
who came on foot," and that, of course, was very hard on the poor
pedestrian, for greater contempt no man ever had for rival than David
for Elliot, unless, indeed, it was Elliot's for David. But those were
the great clattering days, when there were four famous marrying shops:
the two rival inns of Springfield, that washed their hands of each other
across the street, Mr. Linton's aristocratic quarters at Gretna Hall,
and the toll-bar on the right side of the Sark. A gentleman who had
requisitioned the services of the toll-keeper many years ago recently
made a journey across the border to shake his fist at the bar, and no
one in Gretna Green can at all guess why. Far-seeing Murray, the
sometime priest of Gretna Hall, informed me, succeeded Beattie at the
toll-house in 1843, and mighty convenient friends in need they both
proved for the couples who dashed across the border with foaming fathers
at their coaches' wheels. The stone bridge flashed fire to rushing
hoofs, the exulting pursuers, knowing that a half-mile brae still barred
the way to Springfield, saw themselves tearing romantic maidens from
adventurers' arms, when Beattie's lamp gleamed in the night, the horses
stopped as if an invisible sword had cleft them in twain, the maid was
whisked like a bundle of stolen goods into the toll-bar, and her father
flung himself in at the door in time to be introduced to his son-in-law.
Oh, Beattie knew how to do his work expeditiously, and fat he waxed on
the proceeds. In his later days marrying became the passion of his life,
and he never saw a man and a maid together without creeping up behind
them and beginning the marriage service. In Springfield there still are
men and women who have fled from him for their celibacy, marriage in
Scotland being such an easy matter that you never know when they may not
have you. In joining couples for the mere pleasure of the thing, Simon
brought high fees into disrepute, and was no favorite with the rest of
the priesthood. That half-mile nearer the border, Jardine admits, gave
the toll-bar a big advantage, but for runaways who could risk another
ten minutes, Gretna Hall was the place to be married at.
Willum Lang's puckered face means business. He has been sent for by a
millworker from Langholm, who, having an hour to spare, thinks he may as
well drop in at the priest's and get spliced; or by an innocent visitor
wandering through the village in search of the mythical smithy; or by a
lawyer who shakes his finger threateningly at Willum (and might as well
have stayed at home with his mother). From the most distant shores
letters reach him regarding Gretna marriages, and if Willum dislikes
monotony he must be getting rather sick of the stereotyped beginning "I
think your charges very extortionate." The stereotyped ending "but the
sum you asked for is enclosed," is another matter. It is generally about
midnight that the rustics of the county rattle Willum's door off its
snib and, bending over his bed, tell him to arise and marry them. His
hand is crossed with silver coin, for gone are the bridegrooms whose
gold dribbled in a glittering cascade from fat purses to a horny palm;
and then, with a sleepy neighbor, a cold hearth, and a rattling cynic of
a window for witnesses, he does the deed. Elsewhere I have used these
words to describe the scene:—"The room in which the Gretna Green
marriages have been celebrated for many years is a large rude kitchen,
but dimly lighted by a small 'bole' window of lumpy glass that faces an
ill-fitting back door. The draught generated between the two cuts the
spot where the couples stand, and must prove a godsend to flushed and
flurried bridegrooms. A bed—wooden and solid, ornamented with divers
shaped and divers colored clothes dependent from its woodwork like linen
hung on a line to dry—fills a lordly space. The monster fireplace
retreats bashfully before it into the opposite wall, and a grimy cracked
ceiling looks on a bumpy stone floor, from which a cleanly man could eat
his porridge. One shabby wall is happily hid by the drawers in which
Lang keeps his books; and against the head of the bed an apoplectic Mrs.
Langtry in a blue dress and yellow stockings, reminding the public that
Simon Lang's teas are the best, shudders at her reflection in the
looking-glass that dangles opposite her from a string." The signboard
over a snuffy tavern that attempted to enter into rivalry with the
Queen's Head depicts the priest on his knees going through the church
marriage services, but the Langs have always kept their method of
performing the ceremony a secret between themselves and the interested
persons, and the artist in this case was doubtless drawing on his
imagination. The picture is discredited by the scene of the wedding
being made in a smithy, when it is notorious that the "blacksmith" has
cut the tobacco plug, and caught fish in the Solway, and worked at the
loom, the last, and the toll-bar, but never wielded Vulcan's hammer. The
popular term is thus a mystery, though a witness once explained, in a
trial, to Brougham, that Gretna marriages were a welding of heat. Now
the welding of heat is part of a blacksmith's functions.
It is not for Willum Lang to censure the Langholm millworkers, without
whose patronage he would be as a priest superannuated, but if they could
be got to remember whom they are married to, it would greatly relieve
his mind. When standing before him they are given to wabbling unsteadily
on their feet, and to taking his inquiry whether the maiden on their
right is goodly in their sight for an offer of another "mutchkin:" and
next morning they sometimes mistake somebody else's maiden for their
own. When one of the youth of the neighborhood takes to him a helpmate
at Springfield his friend often whiles away the time by courting
another, and when they return to Langholm things are sometimes a littled
mixed up. The priest, knowing what is expected of him, is generally able
when appealed to, to "assign to each bridegroom his own;" but one
shudders to think what complications may arise when Willum's eyes and
memory go. These weddings are, of course, as legal as though Lang were
Archbishop of Canterbury, but the clergymen shake their heads, and
sometimes—as indeed was the case even in the great days—a second
marriage by a minister is not thought amiss.
About the year 1826, the high road to Scotland ran away from
Springfield. Weeds soon afterwards sprouted in the street, and though
the place's reputation died hard, its back had been broken. Runaways
skurried by oblivious of its existence, and at a convenient point on the
new road shrewd John Linton dropped Gretna Hall. Springfield's
convenient situation had been its sole recommendation, and when it lost
that it was stranded. The first entry in the Langs' books dates back to
1771, when Joseph Paisley represented the priesthood, but the impetus to
Gretna marriages had been given by the passing of Lord Hardwicke's act,
a score of years before. Legend speaks of a Solway fisherman who taught
tobacconist Paisley the business. Prior to 1754, when the law put its
foot down on all unions not celebrated by ministers of the Church of
England, there had been no need to resort to Scotland, for the chaplains
of the fleet were anticipating the priests of Gretna Green, and doing a
roaring trade. Broadly speaking, it was as easy between the Reformation
and 1745 to get married in the one country as in the other. The Marriage
Act changed all that. It did a real injustice to non-members of the
Established Church, and only cured the disease in one place to let it
break out in another. Lord Hardwicke might have been a local member of
Parliament, pushing a bill through the House "for the promotion of
Larceny and Rowdyism at Gretna Green." For the greater part of a
century, there was a whirling of coaches and a clattering of horses
across the border, after which came marriage in England before a
registrar, and an amendment of the Scotch law that required residence
north of the Sark, on the part of one of the parties, for twenty-one
days before the ceremony took place. After that the romance of Gretna
Green was as a tale that was told. The latter half of the last century,
and the first twenty years of this, were thus the palmy days of
Springfield, for after Gretna Hall hung out its signboard, the Langs
were oftener seen at the "big house" than in the double-windowed parlor
of the Queen's Head.
The present landlord of this hostelry, a lightsome host, troubled with
corns, who passes much of his time with a knife in one hand and his big
toe in the other, is nephew of that Beattie who saw his way to bed by
the gleam of post-boy's lamps, and spent his days unsnibbing the Queen's
Head door to let runaways in, and barring it to keep their pursuers out.
Much depends on habit, and Beattie slept most soundly to the drone of
the priest in his parlor, and the rub-a-dub of baffled parents on his
window-sills. His nephew, also a Beattie, brings his knife with him into
the immortal room, where peers of the realm have mated with country
wenches, and fine ladies have promised to obey their father's
stable-boys, and two lord chancellors of England with a hundred others
have blossomed into husbands, and one wedding was celebrated of which
neither Beattie nor the world takes any account. There are half a dozen
tongues in the inn—itself a corpse now that wearily awaits
interment—to show you where Lord Erskine gambolled in a tablecloth,
while David Lang united him in the bonds of matrimony with his
housekeeper, Sarah Buck. There is the table at which he composed some
Latin doggerel in honor of the event, and the doubtful signature on a
cracked pane of glass. A strange group they must have made—the gaping
landlord at the door, Mrs. Buck, the superstitious, with all her
children in her arms, David Lang rebuking the lord chancellor for posing
in the lady's bonnet, Erskine in his tablecloth skipping around the
low-roofed room in answer, and Christina Johnstone, the female witness,
thinking sadly that his lordship might have known better. Here, too,
Lord Eldon galloped one day with his "beloved Bessy;" and it is not
uninteresting to note that though he came into the world eighteen months
after Lord Erskine, he paid Gretna Green a business visit nearly fifty
years before him. Lang's books are a veritable magic-lantern, and the
Queen's Head the sheet on which he casts his figures. The slides change.
Joseph Paisley sees his shrewd assistant, David Lang, marry his
granddaughter, and dies characteristically across the way. David has his
day, and Simon, his son, succeeds him; and in the meantime many a
memorable figure glides shadow-like across the screen. The youth with
his heart in his mouth is Lord George Lambton. It is an Earl of
Westmoreland that plants his shoulders against the door, and tells the
priest to hurry. The foot that drums on the floor is Lady Alicia
Parson's. A son of Lord Chief Justice Ellenborough makes way for his own
son; a daughter follows in the very footsteps of her father, only a few
hours between them. A daughter of Archdeacon Philpot arrives at four
o'clock in the morning, and her companion forgets to grease the
landlord's hand. The Hon. Charles Law just misses Lord Deerhurst. There
are ghosts in cocked hats, and naval and military uniform, in muslin,
broadcloth, tweed and velvet, gold lace and pigskin; swords flash,
pistols smoke, steaming horses bear bleeding riders out of sight, and a
thousand forms flit weird and shadowy through the stifling room.
The dinner of the only surviving priest of Gretna Hall frizzled under
the deft knife of his spouse as he rubbed his hands recently over the
reminiscences of his youth. Willum Lang never officiated at the Hall.
Intelligent Jardine, full of years and honors, now enjoys his ease, not
without a priestly dignity, on a kitchen sofa, in his pocket edition of
a home at Springfield, and it is perhaps out of respect to his visitor
that he crowns his hoary head with a still whiter hat. His arms
outstretched to the fire, he looks, by the flashes of light, in his
ingle-nook a Shakespearian spirit crouching over an unholy pot, but his
genial laugh betrays him, and his comely wife does not scruple to recall
him to himself when he threatens to go off in an eternal chuckle. A
stalwart border-woman she, in short petticoats and delightful cap, such
as in the killing times of the past bred the Johnny Armstrongs and the
terrible moss-troopers of the border. A storehouse of old ballads, and a
Scotchwoman after Scott's own heart.
The day that Gretna Hall became an inn, its landlord felt himself called
to the priesthood, and as long as he and his son remained above ground,
marriage was the heaviest item in their bills. But when Gretna knew them
no more, Jardine's chance had come. Even at Springfield the line has
always been drawn at female priests, and from the "big house" used to
come frequent messages to the shoemaker with its mistress's compliments
and would he step up at once. The old gentleman is a bit of a dandy in
his way, and it is pleasant to know that Nature herself gave him on
those occasions a hint when it was time to dress. The rush for him down
dark fields and across the Headless Cross was in a flurry of haste, but
in the still night the rumble of a distant coach had been borne to him
over the howes and meadows, and Jardine knew what that meant as well as
the marriage service. Sometimes the coaches came round by Springfield,
when the hall was full, and there was a tumbling out and in again by
trembling runaways at the rival inns. Even the taverns have run couples,
and up and down the sleety street horses pranced and panted in search of
an idle priest. Jardine remembers one such nightmare time when the
clatter of a pursuing vehicle came nearer and nearer, and a sweet young
lady in the Queen's Head flung up her hands to heaven. Crash went her
true lovers' fist through a pane of glass to awaken the street (which
always slept with one eye open) with the hoarse wail, "A hundred pounds
to the man that marries me!" But big as was the bribe, the speed of the
pursuers was greater, and the maiden's father looking in at the inn at
an inconvenient moment called her away to fulfill another engagement.
The Solway lies white from Gretna Hall like a sheet of mourning paper,
between edges of black trees and hills. The famous long, low room still
looks out on an ageing park, but they are only ghosts that join hands
in it now, and it is a clinging to old days that makes the curious moon
peep beneath the blind. The priest and the unbidden witness still are,
but brides and bridegrooms come no more. To the days of his youth
Jardine had to fling back his memory to recall the gravel springing from
the wheels of Wakefield's flying chariot. The story is told in
Hutchinson's Chronicles of Gretna Green, the first volume of which
leads up to but does not broach the subject, and is common property at
Springfield. The adventurer's dupe was an affectionate school-girl on
whose feelings he worked by representing himself as the one friend who
could save her father from ruin and disgrace. The supposed bankrupt was
said to have taken flight to Scotland, and the girl of fifteen, jumping
into Wakefield's coach at Liverpool, started with him in pursuit. A more
graceless rascal never was, for at Carlisle the adventurer swore that he
had talked with Miss Turner's father in an hotel where he was lying
hidden from the sheriff's officers, and that the fugitive's wish was
that she should, without delay, accept Mr. Wakefield's hand. The poor
lassie, frantic with anxiety, was completely gulled, and on the eighth
of March, 1826, Wakefield's coach drew up at Gretna Hall. Too late came
the pursuit to stop the marriage, but the runaways were traced to
France, and the law soon had the husband of a week by the heels. He had
trusted, like all his brotherhood, to the lady's father making the best
of it; and so, perhaps, he did; for the adventurer's address for the
next three years was—Newgate, London.
Spiders of both sexes kept their nets at Gretna Green, but a tragedy was
only enacted at the hall between a score of comedies; and they were
generally love-sick youths and maidens who interrupted the priest to ask
if that was not the "so—sound of wh—wheels on the gravel walk?" A
couple whom it would almost have been a satisfaction to marry without a
fee (for the mere example of the thing) was that which raced from the
south of England with the lady's father. When they reached the top of a
hill his arms were gesticulating at the bottom, and they never turned
one corner without seeing his steaming horse take another. Poor was the
fond lover (dark his prospects at Gretna Green in consequence) but brave
the maid, to whom her friends would insist on leaving money, which was
the cause of the whole to-do. The father, looking on the swain with
suspicious eye, took to dreaming of postillions, high-roads, blacksmiths
and Gretna Green. He would not suffer his daughter to move from his
sight, and even to dances he escorted her in his private carriage,
returning for her (for he was a busy man) at night. Quick of invention
were the infuriated lovers. Threading the mazes of a dance, the girl was
one evening snatched from her partner's arms by the announcement that
her father's carriage barred the way below. A hurried explanation of why
he had come so soon, a tripping down the stairs with trembling limbs
into a close coach, a maiden in white in her lover's arms, and hey-ho
for Gretna Green. Jardine is mellowed with a gentle cynicism, and
sometimes he breaks off in his reminiscences to wonder what people want
to be married for. The Springfield priest, he chuckles, is a blacksmith
at whom love cannot afford to laugh. Ay, friend Jardine, but what about
the blacksmith who laughs at love?
Half a century ago Mr. McDiarmid, a Scotch journalist of repute,
loosened the tongue of a Springfield priest with a bowl of toddy. The
result was as if the sluice had been lifted bodily from a dam, and
stories (like the whisky) flowed like water. One over-curious
paterfamilias there was who excused his visit to the village of
weddings on the ground that he wished to introduce to the priest a
daughter who might one day require his services. "And sure enough," old
Elliot, who entered into partnership with Simon Lang, crowed to his
toddy-ladle, "I had her back with a younger man in the matter of three
months!" There lives, too, in Springfield's memory the tale of the
father who bolted with an elderly spinster, and returning to England
passed his daughter and her lover on the way. Dark and wintry was the
night, the two coaches rattled by, and next morning four persons who had
gone wrong opened the eyes of astonishment.
When David Lang was asked during Wakefield's trial how much he had been
paid for discharging the duties of priest, he replied pleasantly, "£20
or £30, or perhaps £40; I cannot say to a few pounds." This was pretty
well, but there are authenticated cases in which £100 was paid. The
priests had no fixed fee, and charged according to circumstances. If
business was slack and the bridegroom not pressing, they lowered their
charges, but where the bribed post-boys told them of high rank, hot
pursuit, and heavy purses, they squeezed their dupes remorselessly. It
is told of Joseph Paisley that when on his death-bed he heard the
familiar rumble of coaches into the village, he shook death from him,
ordered the runaways to approach his presence, married three couples
from his bed, and gave up the ghost with three hundred pounds in his
palsied hands. Beattie at the toll-bar, on the other hand, did not scorn
silver fees, and as occasion warranted the priests have doubtless ranged
in their charges from half-a-crown and a glass of whisky to a hundred
pounds.
Though the toll-bar only at rare intervals got wealthy pairs into its
clutches, Murray had not been long installed in office when pockets
crammed with fees made him waddle as heavily as a duck. Fifty marriages
a month was no uncommon occurrence at Gretna at that time, and it was
then that the mansion was built which still stands about a hundred yards
on the English side of the Sark. The toll-keeper, to whom it owes its
existence, erected it for a hotel that would rival Gretna Hall, and
prove irresistible to the couples who, on getting married on the Scotch
side, would have to pass it on their return journey. But the
alterations in the Marriage Laws marred the new hotel's chances, and
Murray found that he had over-reached himself. Perhaps one reason why he
no longer prospered was because he pursued a niggardly policy with the
postillions, ostlers, and other rapscallions who demanded a share of the
booty. The Langs knew what they were about far too well to quarrel with
the post-boys, and stories are still current in Springfield of these
faithful youths tumbling their employers into the road rather than take
them to a "blacksmith" with whom they did not deal.
There is no hope for Gretna. Springfield was and is the great glory of
its inhabitants. Here ran the great wall of Adrian, the scene of many a
tough fight in the days of stone weapons and skin-clad Picts. The
Debatable Land, sung by Trouvere and Troubadour, is to-day but a sodden
moss, in which no King Arthur strides fearfully away from the "grim
lady" of the bogs; and moss-troopers, grim and gaunt and terrible, no
longer whirl with lighted firebrands into England. With a thousand stars
the placid moon lies long drawn out and drowned at the bottom of the
Solway, without a lovesick maid to shed a tear; the chariots that once
rattled and flashed along the now silent road were turned into firewood
decades ago, and the runaways, from a Prince of Capua to a beggar-maid,
are rotten and forgotten.