A diary of the wreck of His Majesty's ship Challenger, on the western coast of South America, in May, 1835

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

A DIARY OF THE WRECK OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIP CHALLENGER.

On the first day of April, 1835, His Majesty’s ship Challenger sailed from Rio Janeiro for the Pacific, with orders to touch at the port of Concepçion in our way to Valparaiso, at which place we hoped either to find the commodore commanding on the western coasts of South America, or directions for our further proceedings. Valparaiso and Concepçion are the two principal seaports of the republic of Chili; the former being the most important, as receiving the great bulk of manufactures, and other numerous and various exports from Europe.

The object of the Challenger’s calling at Concepçion, situated about 300 miles south of Valparaiso, and laying in the route of the latter port, was for the purpose of procuring a supply of wood and water, for which Concepçion offers peculiar facilities.

The first part of our voyage was a series of calms, with light variable winds; and our progress to the southward was slow, until we reached the latitude of 31° south. We then began to experience fresh westerly and southerly winds, which, with little variation, continued until we had arrived in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Nothing had occurred worthy of notice, except that numerous flying-fish were seen as far south as the latitude of 40°. Off the Cape, in latitude 60°, after a short interval of calm, a number of what we only know by the name of black fish attracted our attention by the peculiarity of their movements, and the closeness of their approach to the ship; and we experienced a severe gale, which began in the south, and gradually veered to S.S.W. and S.W., accompanied by an unusually high sea, with constant hail squalls.

May 4.—The wind blew violently from S. and S.S.W., with a heavy sea and hard squalls of hail and snow. It was of consequence to draw the ship to the westward, and to this end we carried our close-reefed main-topsails and reefed foresail; the wind being about two points abaft the beam; the ship behaving remarkably well, but lurching deeply; and on one occasion she made so heavy a plunge, that a long lee sea came in over all, staving in the lee quarter gallery, moving the sheet-anchor, floating our spars in the lee channels, and actually wetting the legs of several persons who were securing their holdfast under the weather bulwarks. We looked on this as a hint to batten down our main-deck hatchways; to take the canvass off her; and, as night was closing in, the main-topsail and foresail were furled, and the ship eventually hove-to, under the fore and main-staysails; the latter having been, in our first attempt to set it, blown to leeward by the carrying away of our staysail stay. In this breeze a heavy sea struck the bows and cutwater, and with a most singular result, for it carried away the crown of our figure-head from the forehead upwards; and the ominous remark of the person who reported the circumstance to the officer of the watch was, “Sir, she has lost her brains.” The weather continued stormy, with heavy squalls of hail, with little intermission, till the 6th and 7th of May; when we experienced a severe gale off the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and under the double-reefed courses, which was as much sail as the masts and yards would bear; and, in a long high sea, the good qualities of the ship called forth the undivided praise of all on board.

May 17.—In latitude 41°, and longitude 80° 43′ W., the weather appeared to have undergone a change for the better. The barometer, which had been for several weeks very low, now rose to the height usually shown on the coasts of Peru, and the northern parts of the coast of Chili; and many were the mutual congratulations exchanged on board, on our having at length got into fine moderate weather, securing, as we conceived the ultimate object in view, that of arriving at the port of Concepçion, then only two days’ sail in distance from us. Good observations were obtained on this day, the results of which were found to agree closely with our estimation as shown by the dead reckoning. The topgallant masts were sent aloft, together with the studding-sail booms, and a variety of gear, which, during our stormy weather, had been sent on deck to relieve the masts and ship; and all the necessary sail was made in the direction of our destined port. The wind S.W.; the course steered N.N.E.

May 18.—The weather became thick, with a fresh wind. The 19th produced little change, except that we were enabled to get a good set of sights of the sun for our chronometers, by which, with our latitude by dead reckoning, we worked out our longitude, the correctness of which we had no reason whatever to doubt. At noon Concepçion bore from us N. 52°, 41° E., 146 miles. At 5 P.M. the ship was hove-to, the chain cables bent, and the usual preparation made on approaching an anchorage. The deep-sea lead was tried in upwards of 200 fathoms, but without striking soundings. Sail was again made in the ship, treble-reefed topsails, courses, and fore-topmast staysail.

At 8 P.M., after a careful examination of the ship’s place on the charts, directions were given to haul the ship to the wind on the larboard tack. This was done at about 10 minutes after 8 o’clock, and it allowed her to lay along shore, N. half E., the wind being about W.N.W., reducing her rate of going to about four knots; at which pace it was proposed to allow her to continue, until daylight permitted us to bear up, and again make sail for our destination, Talcuhuana Bay, the anchorage of Concepçion. The weather at this time was still hazy, the wind moderate, the water smooth, and stars appearing occasionally overhead, with an expected moon at midnight, promising us a quiet fine night: but the Almighty had ordered it otherwise, and a most awful and perilous shipwreck awaited us.

At about 9 45′ P.M., the look-out men having been visited but a few minutes before, breakers were seen at the same moment by them and the officer of the watch, who also remarked a new and peculiar motion in the movement of the ship. The helm was instantly put down, and the watch hurried to their stations to tack the ship; the captain, calling for the hands to be turned up as he flew upon deck, and as the ship had answered the helm though rising to a very high sea, and was coming round, hauled the after-yards. Orders were given to stand by the anchors; but almost immediately afterwards the order “to keep fast the anchors,” and haul the head-yards. In accomplishing this latter operation a high surf struck the bows; the ship, lifting to the heavy swell, got sternway, and struck with a dreadful crash, her keel taking the rocks about midships: another sea followed, which threw her on her starboard beam-ends, the surf at the same time breaking over and into the ship with a force sufficient to wash the men from the decks. Most miraculously, however, no serious accident now occurred, nor was any greater injury sustained than by the men at the helm, who were thrown over the wheel, and severely bruised. We were now at the mercy of the heaviest surf it is possible to conceive; the ship labouring in a most fearful manner, falling over on either broadside, and righting herself as the weight and force of the sea affected her; and the warning orders were reiterated to hold on, and keep out of the way of the masts, which were every moment expected to fall. The masts, however, stood, though many of the loftier back-stays, stay, and braces, came down, but, fortunately, without injury to any one.

A few minutes had been sufficient to place us in this most frightful and truly awful situation; a situation requiring the greatest degree of firmness, as well as promptitude of action. A thick dense fog, which hung on the water, gave us no warning of the silent and terrible rollers; the first of which, on being discovered, launched us amongst the breakers, which were now roaring with fury around us, drenching to the skin every individual on the deck as they broke with violence into the ship. The brilliancy of the surf and spray, added to the sad and gloomy character of the night, made our frightful situation the more apparent; and, for a considerable interval of time, so heavily did the ship continue to strike, that it appeared impossible for any human power to prevent her from going to pieces, or to conceal from ourselves the appalling prospect of a watery grave for every soul on board.

By the important decision of keeping fast the anchors, and cutting away the mizzen-mast, the ship appeared to be relieved abaft, and to be thrown over rocks into what we fancied to be a shoal; whereas; if she had been at all checked by an anchor, all must have perished on the spot where she struck. A heavy surf continued to roll in on us, the spray breaking high over us on the decks: the hand-leads, however, satisfied us that we were on sand, through which the weight of the sea was forcing the ship; and, as she providentially took up a position with her bow to the surf, hope began to dawn amongst us of the ship’s holding together, and hence a chance for the safety of our lives, when daylight should assist us in discovering the means of attempting it. Another danger had also excited our apprehensions, from an appearance of dark water astern of us, inside the surf, apparently rendering it indispensable to drop our anchors to hold the ship on the sand, to avoid foundering in deep water: for we had become aware of the impossibility of keeping her afloat, as she had been seriously bilged about midships, the tanks and chain cables rising to the lower deck as the ship worked in the sand in which she was now embedded. The leads, however, continuing to assure us that she still bedded with tolerable firmness, the anchors were kept fast; the prudence and good fortune of which step daylight fully disclosed to us. On her first striking amongst the breakers, the rudder was carried away, the gun-room beams and cabin deck forced up, and a vast body of water coming in astern flooded the gun-room and lower deck: many of the timbers on the starboard side were heard to break with a fearful crash.

The excellent conduct and good discipline of all on board, in this extremity of danger, merited the highest praise. Although every heart must have felt the hopelessness of our situation, there was evinced that steady attention to the orders which were given, free from confusion or the slightest disobedience. How frequently did we afterwards remark on the fatal result that must inevitably have followed any rash attempt which, under the influence of terror, might have been made, to quit the wreck, and, I trust, with feelings of humble thankfulness to the providential mercy which had thus far preserved and directed us.

The main-deck ports had been caulked in for our voyage round Cape Horn, and had fortunately not been started. The main-deck hatchways were battened down; but it was necessary to scuttle the lower deck, from the quantity of water taken in over all. From the drawing of the ship through the sand, the hand-pumps constantly going, enabled us to keep her sufficiently free to allow us to get up a considerable quantity of dry biscuit, which was put into some of our empty water-casks: some ball-cartridges were also got up, and placed in the dryest situation on the main-deck. Yet, at this time, so slender was the hope of saving ourselves, or any thing belonging to us, that the ship’s accounts, with a private packet or two, were secured in a cask, to be thrown overboard, with the chance of its reaching the shore, and telling the fate of the poor Challenger.

Towards midnight, some officers and men thought they perceived land astern; and, on the starboard quarter, many were the eyes which eagerly sought out a gleam for their deliverance. We now attempted, by means of blue lights and rockets thrown in the direction, to ascertain the existence of land, but without success. The moon having at length risen, we, at about 2 30′ A.M., after anxiously watching the dispersion of some heavy clouds, got sufficient moonlight to make certain the sight of land. Those who witnessed that moment will long remember the joy and emotion which it gave rise to; for the horrors of the preceding four hours had been surcharged with the torturing apprehension of lingering death. Dark and desponding must be that mind which, at such a crisis, could not derive some solace in the hope of succour from that omnipotent Being, who governs the storm, and alone has the power to save.

The weather continued dark and gloomy, with occasional drizzling rain, but little wind, though squally-looking clouds were passing rapidly over our heads—a high irregular surf breaking on all sides around us with a noise and roar not to be forgotten. The dangerous nature of the surf made it evident that no common boat could pass through it in safety; and the ship having become, in a measure, less laboursome, the jolly-boat and gig were prepared as life-boats by lashing to them small boats’ breakers and spars, to be ready for use on the return of daylight.

May 20.—At daylight the shore presented a long, low, flat sandy beach, with a tremendous surf rolling in on it, extending to the southward a distance interminable to the eye; in the W.N.W. direction an elevated promontory of land extended out to the westward, with a reef of scattered rocks, distant from us between two and three miles. To land the crew was the first object to which our attention was directed. The only mode to effect this appeared to be by succeeding in establishing a means of communication by a rope, or hawser, whence to raft the crew from the ship to the beach, the nearest distance to which was about two cable-lengths. With this view the jolly-boat was lowered over the stern into the surf under the charge of Mr. A. Booth, mate, and a volunteer crew of seven men; and, after a long struggle, they succeeded in reaching the beach with the end of the deep sea lead-line; but, owing to the strong set of the current along shore to the southward, the spot on which they landed was at least half a mile distant from that part of the beach immediately astern and nearest the ship. The jolly-boat was no sooner washed upon the beach, than the crew, thoroughly drenched, began the labour of endeavouring to tauten the line in the direction astern of the ship; but, after many fruitless attempts to do so, it was evident to us on board that a second boat, with more assistance, was absolutely necessary to effect this object. The bite of the line was much checked by the current and masses of shifting sand, caused by the immense back-set off the beach. It was now the gig was launched over the stern by means of the spanker-boom, rigged as a derick, and secured to the stump of the mizzen-mast, with a topping lift to the mainmasthead, and hung ready to drop at a favourable moment into the surf: she was the captain’s gig, and considered to possess qualities likely to ensure equal success with the boat that had already reached the shore, being carefully fitted in a similar manner.

Into the gig went Mr. Gordon, midshipman, a most zealous volunteer, who had anxiously sought the dangerous attempt of going in the first boat: with him were six volunteer seamen. One of the six, serving his time on board for having been a smuggler, and possessed of great activity and strength, was placed in the charge and management of the steer-oar, the nature of the surf rendering a rudder useless. On leaving the stern of the ship, cheered by all on board, they passed over a roller or two in security, and the superior management of the steer-oar appeared to promise certain success. But, alas! another and another terrific roller followed, the gig broached-to, was instantly capsised, and whirled over and over. This heartrending sight again damped the hopes of all; and what added to the cruel and distressing situation of those in the ship, was the impossibility of rendering the least assistance to our poor shipmates, now struggling with death in the dangerous surf. Most anxiously were our glasses directed to the spot, when occasionally, as they drifted to the southward, their heads were at moments visible.

By this melancholy accident perished Mr. Gordon, a most excellent young man, possessed of every quality to fit him for the highest station in his profession. He was much esteemed by his captain, not only for his efficiency, but for his many estimable qualities. He was greatly beloved by his brother shipmates, and much regretted by all. John Edwards, an excellent seaman, was also lost by this sad event. Their bodies were never found, and were supposed to have either been carried out to sea by the back-set, or buried in the sand. The others of the crew of the gig were taken out of the water by the crew of the jolly-boat, nearly exhausted, and more than three quarters of a mile to the southward.

At about 6 A.M. this morning (20th), a ship was discovered through the haze about three or four miles outside the breakers, standing in for the land. Seeing the danger of her situation, one of the after main-deck ports was opened, two guns fired as a signal to her, and an ensign hoisted to the main-topmast crosstrees, with the union downwards: she tacked, and stood off, hoisting Swedish colours. The rollers broke outside us, to a distance of at least a mile and a quarter, and it was impossible for her to render us any assistance: little doubt existed amongst us, that we were the hapless beacon of her danger: another hour’s dark might have placed her alongside us.

A three and a half inch hawser had, after much labour, been dragged to the beach: we had now constructed two rafts, by lashing on empty casks strong cross spars, yards, and mess tables; and about 11 A.M. it was determined to try the first by sending a lieutenant and seven men, a kedge-anchor, a stout hawser, and a hawling line, which reached the shore with difficulty, far to the southward, and was thrown so high on the beach, and so shaken, that she could not again be launched this day. About 2 P.M. the second raft was hoisted over, and, with the first lieutenant, assistant surgeon, captain’s clerk, several of the junior midshipmen, who were secured to the raft by life lines, and thirteen seamen, making a total in number of nineteen persons, were successful in landing in safety. The weight and draft of this raft, from its load (having, in addition to the passengers, several articles of provisions and arms), made the operation of getting a footing on the beach, from the back set of the surf; a critical one; and it was on this occasion that a small body of Indians, on horses, many of whom had been first seen approaching from the hills soon after daylight, dashed into the water, and with their lazos assisted the landing of those on it. One of the most active of the party was an Indian woman.

Our kedge anchor was now buried, and the stout hawser hauled on board, and hove taut, and an attempt to make a second trip with the last raft; but it was upset in the surf, under the stern, and one seaman who had jumped upon it was a long time in great peril of being washed off it, whilst it drifted back to the beach, the slip rope which had attached it to the hawser, by which it had been hove off, having parted. At 3 P.M. the ship appeared to have neared the shore, and it was determined to lash some stout spars to the cutter, and launch her. She landed safely, though nearly filled with water, having conveyed on shore officers, seamen, and marines, to the number of thirteen. It was now nearly dusk, and the whole number landed scarcely exceeded fifty persons. All hands were greatly exhausted, from fatigue both of mind and body, were drenched with wet, and required rest. The comfortless situation of those on shore, on a barren sand, wet through, with scanty refreshment, and a bitter cold frosty night, may be imagined; great anxiety also existing as to the fate of their shipmates on board. A watch was kept on the beach throughout the night, whilst others got shelter under the rafts, and on the side of a mound of sand, at some little distance. To those in the ship an equal share of excessive fatigue and mental anxiety had rendered rest from labour most necessary. The ship continued buried in the sand, and was comparatively quiet, although at intervals labouring, and feeling most sensibly the weighty shocks of the unceasing rollers. A watch attended throughout the night to observe the lead lines; the anchors were kept ready in the event of its being found necessary to drop them, in order to retain the ship’s bows in their position towards the rollers; and the pumps kept working. Much had been done during the past day not yet mentioned: the danger as well as difficulty of communication with the shore had occasioned a vast quantity of the bedding and clothes of the crew to be thrown overboard, attached to pieces of spars, which, on being washed on shore, were received by those on the beach. In addition to these articles were casks filled with bread, casks of salt pork, and a great number and variety of other things. Amongst these a quantity of segars, which had been put into empty bottles and securely corked, were washed up in good condition.

Captain Seymour had hastily written a letter to His Majesty’s consul at Concepçion, from which place we hoped we were not very distant, of which the assistant surgeon, who spoke a little Spanish, and the clerk of the Challenger, had volunteered to be the bearers. They had landed in the second raft; and to find a fit person to conduct these gentlemen, in an unknown country, through thick woods, across rivers, along roads in places almost impassable, was an object of the greatest interest and importance, and which the suspicious countenances of the Indians, who had become numerous around us, and to whom we could not make ourselves understood, afforded little promise of accomplishing. By a most providential circumstance Camilo Hermosillo, a Spanish Chilino from the neighbourhood of the frontier town of Arauco, had come to the southward to purchase cattle, and hearing of a wreck, had accompanied an Indian cacique to the spot of our misfortune. This honest man gave the clue to all our future correspondence.

After much negotiation, and being piqued on his Castilian blood, and with fair promises of reward, Camilo undertook to become the guide, and procure the horses necessary for a journey to Concepçion. We were indebted to the zealous exertions of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, for our success, which is to be attributed, in a great measure, to his perfect knowledge of the Spanish language and character.

From Camilo we obtained the first outline of our situation. We were informed that the name of the spot on which we were wrecked was Molquilla, in the province of Arauco, sixty leagues south of Concepçion, and about thirty-five miles from the island of Mocha; and by observations afterwards taken on shore with our artificial horizon, in latitude 37° 48′ 48″ south, and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ west. It lies at the extreme southern verge of that portion of the Araucanian Indian territory in which the Indians tacitly acknowledge the authority of the Chilian government; and under its influence the caciques had, for the previous twelve months, been carrying on a war of extermination against the more southern Indians of Tucapel, Tercia, and Imperial. We also learnt that, on the 20th of February last, the city of Concepçion had been totally destroyed by an earthquake, since which shocks had been continually felt upon the coast in the vicinity, and of which we had soon experience. The position on the beach where the landing had been made was described as untenable; and it was recommended to take the highest elevation that the small sand-hills on the extensive flat around us afforded, as a security from the rising of the sea, which in three days after rose far above the spot on which our first communication with Camilo took place, and level with the base of the small sand-hill of scarcely ten feet elevation on which we were encamped.

With the assistance of the Indian cacique, horses were procured; and with the greatest satisfaction we saw from the ship our two shipmates, with their guide, at half past four, depart on their journey to Concepçion, the Indians retiring to the hills on the approach of dusk. In the ship, six larboard after-main-deck guns had been thrown overboard to counteract an inclination which she had to fall over on her larboard broadside, the fore-topmast cut away, and the main-topmast struck, and the sails cut from the yards, and sent on deck ready to transport to the shore for tents.

May 21.—At daylight all hands were labouring hard in working the rafts between the shore and the ship. So powerfully had the surf acted on the hull of the ship during the night, that she was forced one half the distance that we had been, on the 20th, nearer the beach; and hence our future operations, though still harassing from the breaking in of the surf, were rendered free from danger. The weather proving fine, the sick were landed during the morning: we had three in cots, who were hoisted over the stern, and secured on a heap of bedding and casks sufficiently high to prevent more than a little spray from reaching them. They were carried up to the mound of sand on which the choice had fallen as the site of our camp. Numerous Indians came from the neighbouring hills to reconnoitre us, with the Cacique Cheuquante, with a considerable retinue of them and a Spanish interpreter, offering assistance against the southern Indians, of whom they evinced a great dread. Although the disinterestedness of these offers were prudently estimated, policy enjoined address and conciliation to cultivate their confidence and good opinion; and the captain, who had observed the increase of Indians, landed about 2 P.M. to organise the crew and construct a camp, and keeping in view these considerations, accepted the services of a few as look-out men.

A large tent was erected on the mound of sand for the crew, composed of two topsails, a main course, and some studding sails, and near it a smaller one for the captain and officers. Into this latter tent were conveyed all the small arms which had been landed, cutlasses, pikes, and some ball cartridges, together with any other articles, which time and labour had allowed us to collect and bring up for the night. The spot on which we had fixed for our encampment was distant from the wreck about half a mile: the beach, which we learnt was about forty-five miles in extent, formed the line of sea boundary to the swampy, sandy marsh, in which was situated the mound which held our camp. This flat extended inland to a chain of irregular hills, distant four or five miles, on which were visible patches of trees and underwood. From these hills ran, in the direction of the sea, a small stream of good fresh water, which passed immediately at the base of the mound on which we were encamped. This stream proved to us a blessing of inestimable value, for our stock of water on board had become damaged soon after our misfortune, from the overflowing of the sea-water into the tanks; and to have sent to any distance for water, in our increasing apprehension of the conduct of the Indians, would have added much to our embarrassment. Before the night had closed in on the 21st, we had, by the construction of tents, secured a tolerable shelter for all who were on shore. An officer, with an appointed number of men, remained on board the wreck to attend to the working of the pumps, the tautening of the hawsers, and to watch the labouring of the hull, the surf continuing to roll in with its usual overpowering force, the noise of which on shore, during the night, was quite stunning. The weather throughout the day had been tolerably fine, the wind moderate from the N.W., and the night threatened to be cold and frosty. On the approach of night, the Indians, who had been numerous, moved off in various directions towards the hills: they usually came in the morning, in groups, on horseback and on foot, from six to eight in a party, making the shortest route to our camp which the standing pools of water, which were numerous, would allow.

Before the crew were permitted to partake of any refreshment, the arms were distributed to be dried, cleaned, and prepared for use, and all were cautioned as to their conduct to be observed towards the Indians. The scene of our encampment on this night it is not in the power of any one to imagine, who was not witness to it. The exhaustion from incessant labour throughout the day was evident in all; not an article of clothing or bedding had reached the shore, without having experienced the drenching effects of the surf, and the heaps of innumerable articles that were scattered on all sides, formed a melancholy contrast to our customary order and regularity in our poor lost ship. Bounded in our rear by a marsh, which the rainy season, now at hand, would convert into a lake; the ocean in our front, rising occasionally within little more than a hundred yards of our camp, and from which the effects of an earthquake, (slight, indeed, compared to that which so recently occurred at Talcahuana, where the sea rose thirty feet,) might have swept us away; and the probability of a visit from the hostile southern Indians, who the preceding year had plundered of every article the unfortunate crews of four merchantmen, wrecked upon the coast, left us only the uncheering prospect of equivocal hospitality from our northern neighbours,—a barbarous race who murder the adults, and sell for slaves the infant children, of their captured enemies. Fires were made, and some salt pork cooked for our suppers; each also receiving an allowance of rum. A watch, consisting of an officer, a midshipman, and a proportion of the men under arms, was established for the night, and rest anxiously sought for on the sand under our canvass.

May 22.—Daylight saw all hands, who were not disabled from previous exhaustion, hard at work in tautening the hawsers from the wreck to the shore, working the pumps, and getting on shore our stream-anchor, which, after some difficulty, was buried in the sand, and backed with a gunslide: to it we bent the chain and hemp stream-cables, which were brought to the capstan on board; and, by keeping a strain on them, the hull continued, from the force of the sea, and daily becoming lighter, to near the shore. We now worked hard to secure whatever provisions we could get at, spars and sails to strengthen our tents, and arms and ammunition for our protection against molestation on the part of the Indians.

One of our nine-pounder long guns was also got up and pointed over the stern of the ship, so as to cover our camp, as well as give protection to the ship. The weather to-day was cold and frosty, with fog: the surf appeared to be forming a ridge of sand outside the bows of the ship; the hull at times working a good deal, particularly in her lower frame, the stanchions and bulkheads in the lower deck and holds having given way, and the chain-lockers displaced. She was in sand to the depth of eight or nine feet. The fore-yard was got over the side, and drifted to the beach. Many stores and provisions were collected, and taken to the encampment, with several articles of comfort, such as tea, which had escaped damp, wine, and cooking utensils; likewise the coppers for the ship’s company’s cooking.

A party had erected another large tent for the captain and officers, their previous tent being now appropriated to the warrant officers and stores. At one end of the officers’ tent was placed the dingy, now converted into a powder magazine. The state of our arms was particularly examined into in the course of the day, and the camp as much organised as circumstances had as yet permitted us. The Indians had been numerous throughout the day, but not unfriendly, and many exchanges had been made between them and the crew, of apples, fowls, and potatoes, for wet clothes, or any description of metal: still we were far from feeling easy about them, from their known savage and wild character. Several of the Cacique Cheuquante’s Indians arrived, with their long spears, and had collected close to us, as our accepted look-outs against their brethren the hostile Indians, who were in force beyond the neighbouring hills, but kept in check by an opposing party, under the influence of the government of Chili, in command of the Cacique Colissi. With Cheuquante’s Indians was the Spanish interpreter before mentioned,—Rafael Lobo, a half-bred Indian, who assumed an authority over them, and with whom we had afterwards much communication. A vast quantity of scattered articles was collected from the beach, and brought within the limits of our camp. An armed watch was at dusk placed round the tents, and twenty-five men, under the command of the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, remained on board in charge of the wreck.

May 23.—began with fog, and moderate northerly wind. The operation of tautening the cables was attended to as the wreck continued to be forced farther on the beach. Several more of the main-deck guns having been thrown overboard, assisted this. To aid the landing heavy articles, the lower yards were secured with hanging lashings to the stern, and pointed towards the beach. On these were lashed cross spars; and eventually a rough platform was established, which proved of infinite utility in our operation of clearing the wreck. The chain-pumps were occasionally worked to get at the store-rooms and holds, which had become flooded as high as the situation of the hull in the sand allowed, the depth of water in the holds averaging from seven to nine feet. Cheuquante’s Indians had increased their number of spears to twenty-seven, and with them were a numerous body of straggling Indians, who had collected from all directions, in numbers exceeding our force. Some apprehension was felt by the crew lest they might become victims to treachery. This immediately reached the captain’s ear, who, without loss of time, summoned the men and officers in camp around him, explained to them the better motives of the Indians, yet pointing out the propriety of observing distance with them, and that his orders would exclude them from communication with our camp; that his determination was to assume the best possible state of defence, and to maintain our position, in the event of an attack, until information might arrive from the consul at Concepçion, to govern our movements; and that, as British seamen, he felt confident they would show, by obedience and good conduct, their title to that character. This short and well-timed address dissipated their misgivings, and forcibly exemplified the general confidence which the mild exercise of authority is calculated to inspire. The men were satisfied, returned cheerfully to their tents, and their hardships and privations in camp, although extended to a period of seven weeks, never afterwards excited a murmur. The constant and laborious operation of landing the stores and provisions, the men being constantly wet through, from the breaking-in of the surf, may, at least by the naval reader, be comprehended: our exertions, however, enabled us to rely on our own resources for subsistence as well as defence. No sooner had we begun to examine our situation with reference to strengthen it, than Rafael Lobo expressed great apprehensions and alarm that an attack from the hostile Indians, or, as he termed them, “Enemigos” Indians, would be made upon us, and urgently advised our removing two leagues distant to the northward; for, said he, if we remained in our present position, they would have an advantage, from our exposed situation in a flat plain, and, to use his own meaning, the mounted Indians would ride over us. Captain Seymour consented, therefore, to send two officers with him, for the purpose of examining the ground; but the disadvantage of being at such a distance from the wreck was greater than any slight security that would be afforded us by changing our present position. He was therefore told by the captain his determination to defend the ground he now occupied; and with that view he proceeded to strengthen it by every means in his power.

An offer was made to Rafael Lobo to put up a small tent, at a little distance south of our camp, for shelter for himself and his armed party of Indians, which was accepted. It may not be here misplaced to give a slight sketch of the history and character of the savages amongst whom it had been our fate to be thrown. The population of the province of Arauco in Chili is by far the most warlike in the whole of South America: all the valour and experience of the Spanish arms, in the days of their greatest glory, failed in their obstinate and repeated endeavours to subdue the Indians of Arauco, who have maintained their independence to the present day, and are denominated by the Spaniards “The unconquerable Araucanos.” A beautiful epic poem in the Spanish language, written by Don Alonso de Ervilla y Zunija, published in 1590, describes the battles in which he was actively engaged. His descriptions of the wonderful valour and perseverance of those valiant Indians would appear exaggerated, did not their protracted and heroic resistance against the best men of Spain, at a period when every Spanish soldier was a hero, fully justify the truth of the narration. The greatest part of the Araucanos are, to the present day, engaged in a war of extermination with the Chilino Spaniards.

The Araucano Indian is strong-built and active, with long shaggy dark hair hanging all round his head, as low as his shoulders; and when attacking an enemy, it is allowed partially to cover his face: his person is on these occasions frequently smeared over with mare’s blood. His legs are bare to the knees; he wears a kind of short loose drawers, made of Indian manufacture, with a poncho of the same material; rides a horse of poor appearance, but great capacity, with large spurs of iron, if he can get them, secured to his bare heel with hide straps; his stirrups are only large enough to admit his great toe. Under his poncho, round his waist, is a large knife, often as broad as an English billhook; a set of bolas[1]; and attached to his saddle is his lasso. His spear is a long bamboo staff, with a sharp iron point on its end, which, from its length (twenty-five feet or more), is very flexible, and when in use is kept constantly moving, so that the eye of the adversary cannot discover the intended spot of thrust. The women are often mounted in a similar manner, with the addition of a sort of wrapper round the upper part of the legs. Their cunning is very great. They are very dirty; and they appear, in point of civilisation, a most degraded race of savages. Their principal food is potatoes, sometimes a little meat, frequently the flesh of mares; and they eat many of the numerous kinds of nuts and berries which abound on the hills in the interior of their country. Salt is an article much in request amongst them. It was not uncommon to see a group of them squatted round a grass net of boiled potatoes, with a lump of rock-salt, which they constantly passed from mouth to mouth, round their circle, each taking a hearty suck. The surf continued heavy, and, at intervals, affected the wreck a good deal. The evening closed in with foggy damp weather: the arms were examined, and the watches on board, as well as in the camp, mustered preparatory for the night.

Sunday, May 24.—The necessary operation of heaving in on our stern-fasts was early attended to. The hull had, during the night, been labouring heavily, and was a good deal displaced from her position of yesterday: the wind was northerly, and the rollers broke so heavily, that the surf passed over its usual mark, and rolled far up towards the mound of sand on which we were encamped; moving the boats, and several articles which were laying, as was supposed, on a spot free from the approach of the surf. This day had been set apart as a day of rest; and we were about to make arrangements for performing divine service, when a party of horsemen were seen approaching from the direction of Arauco. They proved to be twelve men belonging to the militia established there, under the charge of Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in that corps, who brought a letter for Captain Seymour from Mr. Jagoe, one of the officers despatched to Concepçion, reporting their progress, and that every facility would be given in the further course of their destination. It appeared that our shipmates were received at Arauco with great kindness by the Chilian authorities, who immediately ordered to Molquillo (the place of wreck) the above party, with a view, as the Spanish despatch of Don José Bustermente to the minister of the interior afterwards expressed, “to prevent robbery and extortion, and to advise and aid in resisting any attack that the Indians might be induced to make from the attraction this misfortune might present to them for pillage.” To send a force capable of ensuring protection to us was not in their power. This party was accompanied by the Cacique Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, with an escort of several Indians, all mounted; he presented the captain with a small ox, supposing us to be straitened for provisions. We offered them a little rum and water, and biscuit; and, after a long interview, the cacique and party retired to the tent of Rafael Lobo, and eventually to the hills. Pinoleo is a fine powerful-looking man, but understood to be very absolute and passionate. The captain had, in thanking him for his present, regretted his having nothing to offer him in return for his kindness; which caused him to rise, and, with great vehemence of expression, in his Indian language, to declaim against the supposition that, in our condition he should seek for a return. Pinoleo is the brother of Colissi, the cacique, who, with the aid of 100 carbineers of Arauco, was fighting and keeping in check Cadin, the hostile cacique of Jucapel and Tirua. He was the most civilised-looking of the caciques which we had occasion to meet. He wore a cloth cap with a gold-lace band; had a very large set of bolas round his waist, under his poncho, with the usual knife. His wife (who, we were informed, was one of many) and daughter were much ornamented with glass bead necklaces, and small silver plates, bits of brass or other metal, strung round their heads and necks: they wore, over their feet and legs, boots made of the skins of a colt’s legs, the hair inside, the knee part forming the heel of the foot, and the rest so shaped as to prove a convenient part of dress. A small handkerchief bound round their heads, and a band of braided beads in the form of a crown, confined their hair. They managed their horses equally as well as the men, riding in the same manner. The captain, and one or two of the officers, found a few presents for the ladies, which caused much pleasure to their party. We shortly after heard that, in a fit of drunkenness, Pinoleo had killed this wife, by knocking her on the head with his bolas: this occurred at the hut of a poor Indian, who had taken pains to entertain Pinoleo and party, as liberally as his means would allow, at supper. On this Indian he called for an indemnification for the loss of his wife, and the payment of a sum of dollars, which had led to the misunderstanding with his wife; but, not having it in his power to satisfy the cacique, he was forced to fly from his lands, his property of cattle becoming the prey of Pinoleo. Such is the present state of justice between man and man in the province of Arauco.

Our worthy shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, with his intimate knowledge of the Spanish language, was the source of all our communication with the Chilinos, and, through an interpreter, with the Indians: his valuable assistance was of vital importance to all; but his patience was sadly tried, from the unceasing calls made on his attention as spokesman.

A tent was erected outside our line of camp for our new force of Chilinos; who zealously commenced the important service of establishing a line of scouts, in the direction of the hostile Indians, amongst the hills to the southward. Don Bernardino liked not the vicinity of our Indian look-out, aware, as he stated he was to us, of their frequent acts of treachery. To his party we spared a daily proportion of our provisions, which, in addition to an occasional forage to the northward, which some of them made, fully satisfied their wants. Through Don Bernardino we were enabled to obtain, from some one of the caciques, a bullock or two, which were driven down to our camp for beef; and from the hills were brought, by the daily straggling Indians, a moderate number of fowls, with potatoes and apples, for which the officers and crew bartered whatever they had to spare that attracted the rapacity of the Indian. The weather, towards night, became thick, the surf sounding loud and heavily. Our usual precautions were taken in watching through the night.

May 25.—We were roused just before one this morning by Don Bernardino, who came to the camp with information, brought by a horseman just arrived, that the Indians had yesterday been fighting near us, and might shortly be expected; recommending us to be on our guard against their insidious mode of attack, particularly about daybreak, and, like them, “to sleep by day and watch by night.” The seamen and marines were instantly under arms. The captain made his disposition of our force, by putting the seamen in quarter watches, the marines forming a fifth body, each under an officer. Rockets and blue lights, and fire-balls, which we had made, were in readiness to throw amongst the horses. Fires were kept in, torches burnt, and all hands paraded the camp till daylight, when tea was made for the ship’s company, and an hour or two of rest permitted. The party on board, under the second lieutenant, were equally on the alert, firing an occasional great gun, double-shotted, to aid the demonstration of our watchfulness. The ship had been so uneasy during the night, that the best bower-anchor had been dropped, to steady her bow to the surf. Anxiety was expressed by the party of Chilinos for us to move from our present encampment to the entrance of a small river, twenty miles to the northward of us, as adding much to our safety from the Indians, from its defensible situation, and being the nearest spot from which any approach could be made from sea to afford us relief; the difficulties of a more distant land journey being impracticable under the circumstances in which we were placed, and the necessity of only moving with our arms, provisions, and several sick. Don Bernardino had, in the first moment of his arrival, urged our moving, pointing out the danger of remaining, not only on account of the hostile Indians, but the liability of the flat on which we were being overflowed by the sea, as well as flooded by the heavy rains which, at that season of the year, might be hourly expected to fall; also stating that, though they might possibly be able to collect horses and mules, to assist our movement, whilst the weather remained dry, yet that, as they must necessarily come from a great distance, and from the neighbourhood of Arauco, the first rains would drive them to their homes again, fearing the impassable state of the country. At night a strong armed watch was on the look-out in the camp, and scouts kept at the distance of a few miles, in the direction of the hostile Indians.

Light winds from the southward, with occasional fog. The evident necessity of strengthening our position, as a precaution against the liability of an attack from the Indians, caused all hands, after attending to the cables attached to the wreck, to be employed in forming such a barricade around our tents as might prove at least a check to the approach of cavalry. The result of this day’s labour, to those who witnessed it, will long be with proud satisfaction called to mind, as a proof of what the stimulated energies of British seamen can accomplish: they forgot their former fatigue, and, “turning-to” with a good will, boats, cordage, casks, and every description of stores useful for defence, were carried on their shoulders, or laboriously dragged over the heavy sand; and the fortified state of our camp, by digging trenches, constructing barriers and platforms for our two boat-guns, which we had got out of the ship, and bringing aft the long-bow guns on board, so as to flank our encampment, reflected the greatest credit on every individual who shared in this day’s labour. Our works were afterwards improved; and, though the known bravery of the Indians is not to be despised, they would have bought a severe lesson by attacking us. Still, regret must have attended any sacrifice in such bootless warfare; and we have just reason to conclude that their knowledge of our prepared state constituted our security from molestation. The surprise of the numerous straggling Indians, who were lookers-on at our laborious efforts, was evidently very great, and, it is certain, excited a strong feeling of respect towards us.

It has been already observed, that the seamen were divided into four quarter watches; three of them commanded by a lieutenant, and the master in charge of the fourth. A fair and equal division of the fire-arms was made: those who had no musket had a pistol, cutlas, or pike. Each quarter watch had their appointed station, to form in when called out under arms. The marines formed in the centre of the camp, and intended to act, as necessary, in support of the weakest point.

It was understood that silence was strictly to be kept, and not a shot fired until orders were given from the captain. All were regularly mustered, under arms, every night before supper; the arms discharged and reloaded, and the necessary steps taken to ensure their readiness for use. The two boat cannonades were each in charge of a quarter watch. At night every body slept with their arms by their side. Besides the sentinels, who called out the half hours throughout the night, a watchword was established, and an officer and midshipman were constantly moving about the encampment and visiting the posts. Such were the precautions used in our endeavours to secure our camp. The Indians, who brought from the hills each his grass-net of apples, potatoes, or fowls, to exchange with us for whatever we had, were requested to carry on their marketing in a small mound of sand, about 100 yards from us; and we put up a staff, with a cross, to indicate the spot, getting an interpreter to explain what we wished: for it was of infinite consequence to prevent an acquaintance with our camp. They smiled at our arrangement, but were not displeased, and for some time they adhered to our desire with tolerable regularity. The Indians had brought each day some supply of poultry, which the crew obtained from them, at first, at an easy rate of exchange, and they willingly received buttons or bits of metal in return: the eagerness, however, of the sailor to add the luxury of a fowl to his mess of salt meat caused the cunning Indian to demand articles of dress: an old shirt was what they coveted much; and a jacket was also among the articles eagerly sought for. On each of our batteries was fixed a flag-staff, to which a union-jack was secured, and kept constantly flying. A full supply of grape, canister, and round shot was piled on each platform, which was composed of cannonade slides sunk into the sand. These guns, as well as those on the stern of the wreck, were almost every evening discharged and reloaded, preparatory for the night. None could go in or out of the encampment without being seen by the sentinels; and at night the watchword was demanded of all who moved out of their tents. Don Bernardino kept us constantly on the alert with regard to the Indians. He had, with the consent of Captain Seymour, despatched an express to the governor of the frontier town of Arauco, begging him to use his authority in collecting seventy horses and thirty mules, to be driven down to the coast to assist in transporting our provisions and baggage to the Rio Leubu, that being the spot from whence we could alone hope to be relieved.

Tuesday, May 26.—Light north-westerly winds and clear weather. Observations were taken, by means of a false horizon, by the master and master-assistant, for a latitude and longitude of the encampment, which gave the latitude 37° 48′ 48″ s., and longitude 73° 34′ 30″ w. The wreck bore from the camp s.w. by w. We now felt a great satisfaction and security in our barricade. Our sick list numbered about ten, who were unfit for active work. Several of the ten were laid up from over work or rheumatic attacks, the result of their being constantly wet in labouring at the wreck.

On board the Challenger, at the time of her disaster, was a Spaniard, who had been engaged in the affair of the Falkland Islands, and was one of the Gauchos who had been taken as concerned in the murders committed there in 1833. He had been released, and was a passenger from Rio de Janeiro, to be landed at Valparaiso; but he had frequently exhibited such symptoms of mental derangement, that it became necessary to secure him in his hammock. On the day the evening of which we were wrecked, he had been unusually unruly, and was therefore placed under restraint. In the moment of the greatest danger, on the striking of the ship amongst the breakers, one of the first who ran on deck was the Spaniard, with scarcely any covering on him. He must have broken away from the lashings which secured him, appeared perfectly sane, and prepared to assist in the duties of the ship; and, singular to relate, on no occasion afterwards, during the whole time of our stay on the shores of Chili, was there observed any return of wildness. He was very useful in the camp, from his skill in cutting out and applying the hides of the bullocks to the fabrication of moccassins.

Wednesday, May 27.—The wind northerly, with thick weather and fog. One watch was occupied at the wreck, getting out any undamaged articles of provisions, private property, or stores that could be got at. The quantity of water in the holds, however, prevented much being done. About mid-day, the Cacique Pinoleo, with his wife and daughter, and several followers, arrived at our camp. He was on his road to join his brother, the Cacique Colissi, who had sent for more assistance to make head against the hostile Indians, with whom he had been fighting. After collecting and mustering the Indians around our camp, and treating us with their war-whoop, he left us to join his brother, strengthening his force with the greater part of Rafael Lobo’s Indians. The daily routine of mustering under arms, with every precaution against a surprise during the night, was duly attended to. The night was damp and foggy.

Thursday, May 28.—The weather moderate, the wind northerly, with a damp fog. Except the necessary attention to the stream-cable fasts, and the working of the pumps, the crew were allowed a respite from their previous daily hard labours, the occupation of to-day being the arrangement of the interior of the tents, and the examination of their clothes and bedding, and likewise cleaning and sweeping inside the barricade, and making storage of the provisions. By the captain’s order a survey was taken by the second lieutenant, Mr. Collins, Mr. M’Donald, the master, and Mr. Barclay, the carpenter, to ascertain, if possible, the principal damage received in the hull of the wreck. Towards sunset it was observed that the stern-post was left dry in the drawback of the surf; and, from the forming of a sand-bank outside the ship, the iron stock of the best bower-anchor was at times visible about half the ship’s length ahead of her. The current through the surf to the southward along shore appeared unusually strong; the weather to seaward dark and gloomy, with the appearance of an approach of a strong northerly gale. At 5 A.M. mustered under arms, and supplied what ammunition was necessary; discharged the arms, and reloaded; and likewise on board the wreck. A messenger arrived from the governor of Arauco to Don Bernardino, acknowledging our request to have horses and mules collected for our removal to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and promising the exertion of all his authority to forward so important an object. The wind increased as the night advanced.

May 29.—The weather dry, but with strong breezes, and cloudy from the northward; an unusually heavy surf rolling in on the beach, breaking with great violence and height on the breakers to seaward: the ship very uneasy, so much so as to threaten a separation of the decks from the lower body of the ship; to relieve her the foremast was cut away, and driven up on the beach to the southward, and the larboard sheet-anchor let go, the mainmast and bowsprit being the only spars now standing. A second small anchor was got on shore to assist in steadying the wreck, with the fore-gaugers and chain-messenger bent to it and hove taut. As the duty permitted, the officers and men were allowed to stroll to some little distance from the camp; and, with one of the Chilinos as a guide and interpreter, a party was occasionally made, in accordance with inclination, as well as appetite, in search of game of any description that might assist in adding to and varying our dinner. Persuaded by Don Bernardino, who furnished horses, the captain, with Mr. Sarjeant and a guide, rode for an hour two or in the direction of the ground pointed out by Rafael Lobo, and as far as the Cacique Cheuquante’s residence, over the hills north of us, distant about two leagues. There they found one of Pinoleo’s wives and a daughter, and attendants. They passed on their road one of the few evidences of a burial-ground which was seen by us. It was a spot of ten or twelve yards square, securely fenced by trunks of large trees piled round, the ends being rudely morticed into each other. The beauty and luxuriance of the country on the hills was a great contrast to the barren sandy flat on which we were situated. The variety and size of the evergreens were most striking. Many trees which bore fruit were also pointed out as much esteemed and eaten by the Indians: some cranberries were also gathered. Abundance of partridges were seen. At 4 P.M. Mr. Lane, the assistant-surgeon, arrived from Concepçion, bringing the welcome intelligence that his companion, Mr. Jagoe, with the consul, Mr. Rouse, were on their road to us, and hoped to reach our camp on the next day. Mr. Rouse was bringing with him several mules laden with articles which he considered we might have need of, as spirits and bread; not knowing of our success in saving out of the ship sufficient provisions for the present support of all. These mules delayed his movements; he, therefore, very properly, had pushed Mr. Lane on with a safe guide to convey to the captain, with as little delay as possible, a reply to his letter, naturally supposing the anxious suspense we were under to hear from him. The consul was also bringing some presents, to conciliate the good-will of the caciques on the road and around our encampment. Towards sunset our camp was put in movement by the appearance, through the distant haze to the southward, of an approach of several groups of horsemen, and a mounted scout was sent by Don Bernardino to reconnoitre. They turned out to be some of Cheuquante’s Indians, who were returning from the late battles fought by Colissi against the hostile Indians. Towards night it blew a heavy gale: its effect on the sand, which we were on, was most inconvenient and annoying, finding its way into every thing inside the tents.

Saturday, May 30.—Strong gales from the northward, with heavy rains, which penetrated the tents a good deal, causing many attempts on the part of the sleepers, during the night, to discover the driest spot inside to lie down on. Daylight saw a crowded group huddled together in the centre of the tent, as being the most free from rain. It was necessary to turn all hands on the pumps to clear the holds of as much water as possible, in order to endeavour to get at the remainder of the provisions, which might have escaped injury. The heavy surf which broke this day on the ship made her very uneasy. Amongst the articles secured to-day, out of the after-hold, were a quantity of salt provisions and other articles, many of which were too much damaged for use, the whole of the lower frame of the ship having been a long time under the influence of sea-water. The provisions and spirits were carefully transported to the camp; the latter placed in the officers’ tent; the former ranged outside of it, in a trench, and covered with sand, thus securing and steadying the tent.

At 12 30′ P.M. we experienced a severe shock of an earthquake, causing a very strong vibration to every article in our tents, and instantly arousing several who were asleep, resting from fatigue. An account of the whole of the provisions saved was carefully taken, and such daily issues made to the crew, under the management of Mr. Sarjeant, the purser, as the quantity of the various species would admit of. The precaution of securing a large proportion of our bread, at the moment of our disaster, and putting it into casks, proved of the greatest consequence to us; for, although it ran short, the third, and afterwards, as long as it lasted, a fourth, of the established daily allowance was of infinite service to us. The powder cases from the magazines, many of which were got out, were discovered not in every instance to have resisted the wet; yet we fortunately had an ample supply for all our necessities. The weather broke a little towards the evening, but with frequent squalls, attended by heavy rain.

Sunday, May 31.—The wind still northerly and fresh, with heavy rain, rendering our camp and tents very uncomfortable. The marsh and flat round us was much flooded, and gave us some idea of what we might expect, should the winter rains commence before we were enabled to quit our present spot, which had, in several points of view, the appearance of an island. The little stream of water which skirted the base of our camp rose amongst the hills inland, in which direction it partook of the character of a small river; and a few small fish were occasionally to be seen jumping in its deepest parts. Its increase after rain was considerable; resuming its ordinary size and force on the return of dry weather. At the camp, in the absence of washing apparatus, it became the scene of each morning’s ablution; and was on every account of inestimable value to us, for it was of excellent quality. A walk on the banks of the little stream could be extended to three or four miles, and yet continuing in sight of our camp, from the flatness of the ground. Duck and widgeon constantly sprang up from under the banks, which were towards the hills, covered with myrtles, rushes, and a gigantic weed peculiar to the marshes of that part of Chili.

On the north side of the stream the officers had, as duty permitted them, gone out with their guns, and seldom returned without a supply of partridges and wild ducks, excellent in flavour, and most acceptable to our numerous mess, which included the officers of all grades, our excellent shipmate, Mr. Sarjeant, being the caterer, and fulfilling, under circumstances, so laborious and troublesome this duty, in a manner deserving the hearty thanks of his messmates. Anxious on every account to advance the necessary and evident object of moving to the banks of the Rio Leubu, and desirous of ascertaining the nature of that spot by an eyewitness of our own, in order that, on the arrival of the consul, no time might be lost in deciding on our future operation as concerned the Leubu, the captain at 10 A.M. despatched two officers, with a guide from the Chilino party, to examine the entrance of that river, with reference to forming an encampment there, and to the possibility of being able to embark from it. Every hour now sensibly proved to us the impossibility of remaining on our present ground. We had been dependent on the wreck for fire-wood, the quantity of which we had burnt was very great. Our spars, from their usefulness as tent-poles and as part of the barricades, we could not suffer to be cut up; parties, therefore, daily foraged the ship and beach for whatever was to be got at to supply the wants of the cooks: our distance from the wood on the hills was too great to send there, besides the risk of separating our force. The surf continued heavy, and the appearance of the weather to seaward squally and unsettled; the ship was working very much in her top sides, and sinking deep forward.

A pest, which eventually became very destructive and annoying to us, had now begun to trouble us, in the shape of a multitude of a large kind of mouse: our provisions, stores, clothes, tents, all suffered from their constant attacks, and the freedom with which they visited the sleepers almost exceeded belief.

At 5 30′ P.M. the British consul, Henry William Rouse, Esq. from Concepçion, arrived at our barricade, accompanied by Colonel Don G. J. Valenzuela, the governor and military commandant of Arauco, with Mr. Jagoe. They had had a severe journey, from the effects of the heavy rain that had fallen in a country where the existence of a road is unknown. Their arrival was hailed with joy as the dawn of our deliverance, and gave us fresh stimulus to exertion. They were fatigued, and gladly partook of what we had to offer them, which included some good wine we had got out of the wreck; and sought some early rest, deciding on the morrow to concert measures for our moving towards the Rio Leubu. The governor expressed himself highly pleased at the manner in which we had barricaded ourselves. We were indebted, for the governor of Arauco’s presence, to the high esteem in which Mr. Rouse is held, amongst the authorities, throughout the country which surrounds Concepçion, where he is much beloved. On Mr. Rouse’s arrival at Arauco, the governor, to whom he is known, insisted on accompanying him to Molquilla, urging the benefit which his authority and presence might be of in assisting him on a journey, if not of danger, at least of great discomfort, and having interviews with the different caciques who were considered friendly to the Chilian government. The reader may possibly feel an interest in knowing what occurred during the journey performed by our two shipmates to Concepçion, and on their return. Mr. Jagoe’s account of it is nearly as follows:—

“The captain had put me in charge of a letter to the British consul at Concepçion, with directions to take it, or find means of transmitting it: he also spoke to Mr. Lane on the same subject. We therefore consulted together as to the best manner of executing this mission, on which so much depended.

“We attempted to communicate with the Indians (who by this time were collecting on the beach, and who evidently seemed inclined to be friendly, and disposed to render assistance to the party on shore), but to no purpose, as we could not make ourselves understood. Happily for us, at this moment a Chilino rode up: he possessed a pleasing countenance, and to him we communicated our wish to be guided to Concepçion, and inquired the distance, which, to our great surprise, we found to be 180 miles. I introduced Mr. Sarjeant (who understands the Spanish language thoroughly) to this Chilino, who, after a few preliminary remarks, agreed to conduct us to Concepçion for a stipulated sum, furnishing horses and all necessaries on the road: but as this Chilino’s horses were at his petraro, eight leagues from the beach, he stood our guarantee for eight dollars with the cacique Cheuquante, for the hire of two horses to take us there; and about half-past 4 three horses arrived, equipped in perfect Indian style, when, after some slight refreshment of biscuit and rum, we took leave of our fellow-sufferers. We rode along the beach about a league, then turned off for the interior, pursuing our way to the foot of some low hills, until we came to the cacique Cheuquante’s dwelling, at about 6 o’clock, at which time it was nearly dark. There we met Don Rafael Lobo, an Indian apparently of Spanish blood from his countenance. He speaks the Spanish language well, and acts as interpreter, and holds the commission of lieutenant of the friendly Indians of the district of Tucapel, and appears to have much influence over them. He urged us much to remain the night. We were much questioned whether we belonged to a merchant ship; if the cargo was saved; of what it consisted; and when we were going to land it: to which Mr. Lane replied, that she was a vessel of war, laden with “powder and ball;” which, on communicating to the group of Indians surrounding us, they held up their hands, howled, and scratched their savage heads, expressive either of astonishment or disappointment. After exchanging our horses, which was the object of our coming here, we continued our way by the side of a thickly-wooded mountain, until the road, if such it maybe called, the horses being knee-deep in water, turned off through this forest. We had not proceeded more than a hundred yards, when the guide called out, ‘Yo he perdido el camino,’ (I have lost the road.) It was at this time quite dark. Such were our prospects, on a cold freezing night, without a dry thread, and Mr. Lane without shoes. The guide rode about two hours, endeavouring to regain the road, or find an opening through almost impenetrable wood, whilst we remained on one spot, occasionally striking sparks with a flint and steel to show our position. At last, fatigued and weary with disappointment, he returned, and pronounced sorrowfully that he had quite lost the road, and we must make up our mind to wait for daylight. Not knowing more of our guide than might be judged of by inexperienced physiognomists, we thought it prudent, in spite of his pleasing countenance, to retire to some distance from him: here we laid down, with our heads on each other’s knees, to keep them out of the wet, giving the signal to turn when either became so insufferably cold or cramped as to require relief. During the night we were alarmed by the frightful neighing of our horses, which our guide informed us was occasioned by the approach of the pinna, a small lion of South America, which is reported to be an enemy to horses, but not to man. In the confusion our guide’s horse got away, and he was a considerable time before he found it; and we heard no more of the intruders. To prevent any further accident, we secured the long bridles of our horses to our arms, in such a manner as made it impossible they could escape without our knowledge, should we be so fortunate as to sleep. Shortly after this we were again alarmed by the barking of dogs, and trampling of horses approaching, as we supposed, in the road we had lost.

“We distinctly heard the voices of Indians, and, if we had known their language, might have been in possession of their intentions: we had no doubt but that they were the party we left at the raucho, who endeavoured to prevail on us to stop the night, and that they were in search of us. When they were so near as to hear if we uttered a word, our guide, in a low tone, said ‘Hush!’ and when the horses made a rustling noise amongst the bushes, he evaded suspicion by grunting like a pig. We asked no questions, but remained in a state of indescribable anxiety till daylight, the 21st, when, wet, cold, hungry, and miserable, we rubbed ourselves to circulate the blood and reanimate our almost frozen limbs. Some time was lost in searching for Mr. Lane’s coat, which had been lost when Camilo’s horse took fright, as we could make no use of it as a covering or protection from the weather, it having been washed on shore, and consequently thoroughly wet. On finding the coat, we saddled our horses, mounted, and discovered the road to be only ten yards from us, and that we had not more than a hundred yards of the forest to pass through. We continued our journey at seldom less speed than a canter; these horses having a peculiar sort of pace, which they can maintain for a length of time almost incredible to an English traveller. We came to a branch of the river Leubu, about twenty or thirty miles inland: with little difficulty we crossed it on horseback; and our guide’s horse being fagged, he took mine, fixed his lasso to the saddle, rode after a few horses which were grazing near us, and in a few minutes entrapped one of the poor animals in that never-failing lasso: this was accomplished in less than ten minutes, and we continued our way across the country till we came to the Rio Leubu. (We had gone to some distance out of our way for the purpose of getting this horse.) Here we dismounted, unsaddled our horses, and hailed an Indian woman on the other side of the river, distant about fifty yards, to know if she had any means of conveying us over. She pointed to something in the shape of a canoe, lying on the bank of the river, filled with mud and water, which, with the assistance of another woman, she managed to turn bottom up, when it proved to be nothing more than a trough, in which they kept their apples for making chiahi, or cider (a very common beverage amongst them): after partially cleaning it, stopping the holes with mud, they floated it, and one of the women embarked, and, with a long pole, shoved it up the river on one side; and when the river turned, she allowed the current to sweep it across, which nothing but her local knowledge of its windings could have enabled her to accomplish. I was the first nominated by our guide to trust to this conveyance, and accordingly slid down the bank (for it was impossible to walk), and introduced myself to the goddess of the deep, by the friendly Indian expression of ‘Mai mai,’ which serves for ‘how do you do?’ ‘good bye,’ ‘very good,’ and is the beginning of every friendly conversation. I embarked, after relieving myself of all incumbrances, such as jacket, waistcoat, &c. thus preparing myself to swim, if necessary; and, standing upright, balanced myself, much to the satisfaction of my waterwoman. Mr. Lane and Camilo (our guide) came over in the same way, each bringing his saddle gear. Previous to embarkation our guide drove the horses into the river, over which they swam without difficulty; and, on landing, the lasso was thrown over their necks, which immediately stopped them. Here we went into a raucho, where our waterwoman assumed the character of hostess, and appeared to keep an Indian eating-house, from the quantity of dried beef hanging about the raucho, and some boiling in an earthenware pot on the fire, which she served up in a wooden bowl, when it proved to be cascuella, made from cherqui and ahi (capsicums) boiled together. As a substitute for spoons we used muscle-shells, and for bread we had heated corn, beaten between stones, and moistened with water, something about the consistency of birdlime. Our beverage was a mixture of water and roasted barley, pounded; which, being put into a bullock’s horn and violently stirred, produces an effervescence, in which state it is drank. I need not say, however foreign as this was to our usual fare, we made a hearty meal, not having eaten any thing substantial since the night of the wreck. This repast occupied us about ten minutes; after which we lighted our pajitas, and resumed our journey towards the patraco of our guide, called Eurihuillin, from the river of that name, which runs through it. Here we dismounted, and our guide, with the assistance of his major-domo, went out and caught fresh horses, while we sat by the fire drying our clothes, amused by the interesting interrogations of two old dames, the major-domo’s wife and wife’s sister, who were feeding us with roasted apples and potatoes.

Our guide came in with his trousers very much torn; and knowing that I had a needle and some thread about me, applied to have them repaired. This I was most ready to do, in return for the kind treatment we had received, and the essential services he had rendered us. He then killed a sheep, which was cut in halves, and put under our saddles, as provisions for the journey. About one we again mounted, leaving directions for the horses to be returned to the Indian from whom we had borrowed them, took leave of our kind hostesses, and galloped off on our fresh steeds, much invigorated; but before night things we realtered—we were for galloping, and they for walking. About two leagues from our guide’s residence, we crossed the river Euriheullin, which forms the boundary of this part of his portraco, which is about twelve miles in length, and as many in breadth, and consists principally of coarse grazing ground in its primitive state, with plenty of wood. For this estate he pays sixteen dollars a year to the widow of a cacique. His stock consists of about 100 bullocks, and as many sheep; the former valued at sixteen dollars, and the latter at six reals each. A man’s rank or station in life is here generally estimated by the number of cattle he possesses, together with the quality of the poncho or mantle he rides in, without reference to the appearance of any other part of his dress: from this we judged our guide to be above mediocrity. During this day we rode from eighty to ninety miles, over a rich and beautiful country, where Nature has bestowed her favours with a liberal hand on an indolent and savage race, who are strangers to every kind of agriculture beyond the cultivation of a few potatoes, for which they prepare a fresh spot of ground every year. This will account for the fine specimens we have met with in this country.

About 4 o’clock this afternoon, I lost my sword, from my carelessness in forgetting to buckle my belt, after looking at my watch on horseback. We were an hour looking for it; and this delay occasioned our being benighted on a thickly wooded mountain, where we encountered many difficulties from the intricacies of the passes, and the quantity of water we had to wade through; but as our guide knew this part of the road much better than that of the preceding day, we surmounted them all, and reached the Indian pueblo of Albarada at 9 o’clock. Here we went into a large rancho, crowded with dirty figures of both sexes, and all sizes; besides a number of dogs, which were kicked out, and a place near the fire cleared for us. We sat down cross-legged, enjoying tobacco and chichi, whilst supper was preparing, which was soon done, as they appear to have the pot always boiling, and also plenty of potatoes at hand, which they prepare in the most dexterous manner, with the edge of a muscle shell. Meanwhile the grey-headed dirty señora of the family was engaged, with the guide, in cutting up one of the halves of the sheep, and putting it into the boiler with potatoes and ahi. In the course of an hour it was served up in the usual way; and, after inviting the señor and señora of the party, we brandished our muscle shells in style, having become adepts in an art in which we were novices but yesterday. We made a hearty meal, and having drunk a sufficient quantity of chichi, we prepared our comfortless beds, having only our saddle gear on which to rest our weary limbs. These we placed close by the fire, and lay down to rest, surrounded by dogs and dirty children: however, after our excessive fatigue, we slept tolerably well.

At daylight, the 22d, we arose, and got rid of some of those intolerable pests, pulgas or fleas (with which we were covered), by taking off and shaking our jackets: we then each took a roasted potato, saddled our horses, and mounted. The ground was frozen very hard, and the air exceedingly cold. We had not gone far when my horse showed symptoms of weakness, or disinclination to proceed, which obliged us to go a considerable distance out of the way, to a cacique known to our guide, to procure another. We had not only to go out of our way, but down a very steep mountain, the horses sliding the greatest part of the way on their haunches, when we came to a beautiful valley, rendered still more lovely by the splendid beams of the newly risen sun. Here, by the side of the river, were scattered a few huts or ranchos, out of one of which came the cacique, who hailed us with that friendly phrase, “Mai, mai,” which we obsequiously returned. Our guide told him the nature of our expedition, and the cause of our visit, when he immediately introduced us to the inmates of his dwelling (all women, the caciques being allowed a plurality of wives). He despatched his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat by the fire smoking pajitas, or eating roasted potatoes, occasionally making ourselves understood by the women, to whom we offered some snuff, which, from having been wet, was become caked: this they readily accepted, and were about to put it into “the general receptacle,” when I stopped them, and made them understand that it was not to be eaten, by taking a pinch myself. They followed my example, but in a most strange manner, by forcing it up their nostrils, and laughing hideously at the ridiculous use thus made of their “smelling apparatus.” Being gratified with the pleasing excitement this pungent powder produced, they begged me to put some in a paper for them: this I was most happy to do, as it was the first opportunity we had (even in this small way) of showing our gratitude for the many and great kindnesses we had received. My horse being brought and saddled, we mounted, leaving directions for the disposal of the fagged horse. We then purchased a goose, which we gave in charge to the guide, lighted our pajitas, and took leave. We ascended this steep mountain in a manner more like going up stairs than any thing else I can compare it to, the heavy rains having given it the appearance of steps; the only support to the horses’ feet being the roots of trees, which intersected the path, and made a tolerably firm footing: we laid down on our horses’ necks to escape being dragged off by the Arcania shrubs, which formed a canopy over our heads. These are chiefly evergreens, some having beautiful flowers. We particularly noticed a large crimson bell-shaped flower, growing as a parasitical shrub, which covered the tops of the tallest trees, and striking the eye of the inexperienced traveller with its incomparable beauty. About eleven we arrived at Arauco, the frontier town of Chili, which is situated twenty leagues south of Concepçion, on the extremity of an extensive marsh, about six leagues in length, bounded on one side by the Pacific Ocean, and on the other by hills, backed by the Cordilleras. This town (which formerly was nothing more than an Indian pueblo, till the Chilinos, by incessant warfare and stratagem, subdued the Indians, and advanced thus far into their territory,) is garrisoned by a few Chilino troops, under the command of Lieutenant-Colonel Señor Don Geronimo José Valenzuela, who was at this time at Concepçion. As soon as we entered the town, the knowledge of our arrival having reached the second in command, Major Don José Sylva, he ran to us, and embraced us as officers in distress, and took us to his quarters, and introduced us to five or six officers, to whom, with himself, we shall ever be indebted for the most Castilian-like kindness and hospitality, which, if I were not an Englishman, I ought to say could not be surpassed. With these gentlemen we dined: they informed us that they would immediately despatch the brother of our guide, Don Bernardino Hermosillo, a captain in their militia cavalry, with a party of twelve men, to guard the wreck at Molquilla; at the same time telling us that their reason for sending so small a number was, because the Indians, so far south as the place where the ship had been wrecked, had acknowledged the government of Chili, and were at present assisting them, or rather themselves, by carrying on an interminable and murderous warfare with the tribes who were disaffected towards the government: the small force they were about to send was merely to act as scouts, to make known the position of the hostile, and to prevent treachery on the part of the friendly tribes, the place of the shipwreck being on the extreme verge where they acknowledged the government of Chili, and where their desperate battles are fought. We took this opportunity of informing Captain Seymour how far we had advanced on our journey; and Major Don José Sylva availed himself of our going to Concepçion for communicating to their government what he had done for the protection of the wreck.

At 2 P.M. we bade a reluctant adieu to these hospitable fellows, deeply impressed with a sense of their kindness and our obligation. We rode along the marsh, observing here and there a rancho, with a spot of cultivated ground, till we arrived at a cluster of ranchos (scarcely deserving the name of a pueblo) about three miles from Lianco, called Caremfranque, after the river which runs near it. Here we were introduced to the family of our guide, who all ran and embraced their parent with affection, and heard from him all the particulars connected with us. Fresh horses were brought by one of the peons, whilst our guide changed his dress and put on a better poncho. It has already been observed, that this part of the habiliment tends to point out the station of life of him who wears it: it is due to our guide to make known that his was a very good one, confirming his respectability and the good character given of his honesty by the officers at Arauco: we can only add that, with the essential service of guiding us to the consul (which we trust will be the foundation of relief to the shipwrecked crew), he has shown us the most christian-like kindness and attention, entitling him to the friendly appellation of “old Camilo,” instead of “our guide.” Taking leave of his kind family, we crossed the river Cacampuqune and came to a few scattered ranchos, named, after an old Spanish fort in its vicinity, “Fuerte viejo Colerico.” Here we were introduced to a Chilian señorita, a pretty brunette, gaudily dressed, and informed by “old Camilo” that we should stop at her house for the night, and, by starting the next morning early, should most probably reach Concepçion in good time, as we were only ten leagues from it. Gratified by this pleasing information, we dismounted, and after begging pardon for our dirty appearance, supper was ordered by “old Camilo:” it was soon prepared, and served up in the Chilian style by our industrious hostess, who, of course, supped with us. During conversation, she told us that there were some Englishmen in the village, and sent for them: they soon made their appearance, and in the course of conversation we discovered them to be North Americans. They made us a present of a dirty pipe and a small quantity of tobacco, which they called real Virginia: this was no treat, as we preferred the pajitas made with mild tobacco, wrapped in the Indian corn-leaf, and presented by our charming hostess, who was an adept in making them. After enjoying our aquaediente and pajitas, we retired to bed and slept soundly; and arose much refreshed at daylight on the 23d. We were delayed until seven o’clock for the horses; and if the nature of our mission had not been so important, we might have said the loss of time was not to be regretted, as our kind hostess was busily engaged in supplying us with maté. At 7 we took leave, promising to call on our way back. We hurried over a high hill or mountain called the “Luro di Villagu,” and by the Indians “Muguana”—(this being the place where they defeated the Spaniards and gained their independence)—then over a plain of six leagues and upwards in length, with here and there a cultivated spot, and many lakes covered with water-fowl. We arrived at the pueblo of San Pedro, on the southern side of the Bio-bio, immediately opposite Concepçion.

Here “old Camilo’s” attention was called to the means of conveying us across the river, while we stopped at the house of an old dame to whom he introduced us: she kindly brought us water, and we washed, leaving our linen to undergo the same process, as we were covered with fleas. Camilo returned, and told us the launch would not be ready for some hours, and recommended our taking breakfast, which we were too happy to agree to: we sat down and made a hearty meal.

About 2 o’clock we embarked in a flat-bottomed oblong launch, with nearly a dozen passengers, two bullocks, four horses, six pigs, and several sacks of wheat. This conveyance was kept under command, against a strong current, by an immense oar which answered the purpose of a rudder. A man was stationed at each end of the launch with a long pole, which, on first starting, was made use of a little, but when in deep water she was merely kept end on to the current by means of the rudder, until we approached the shallow water on the northern side, which covers an extensive flat of sand. On grounding, the horses, bullocks, and pigs disembarked, and the launch being again afloat, was, by the assistance of the poles, shoved some distance over the flat, but still a considerable way from the beach. We disembarked, by mounting our horses from the launch, and entered the city of Concepçion (situated on the Bio-bio), which we found in a state of complete ruin, not a single building standing, and the inhabitants living in tents or wooden houses, which some of the more opulent had been able to erect, as temporary residences. We learned that it had been destroyed by an earthquake, on the 20th of February last: the fatal shock which produced this devastation was felt at mid-day, without giving the slightest warning, when every house and public building fell; and it appears miraculous that only a hundred lives were lost. The port of Talcahuana felt the shock with equal severity. The sea is reported to have risen upwards of fifty feet immediately after the earthquake, breaking up on the ruins, inundating the flat on which the town was situated, and sweeping every thing before it, barely giving the inhabitants time to effect their escape to the hills.

About half-past 3 P.M., in one of these temporary wooden houses, we found H. W. Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul; and I need not say how happy we were to introduce ourselves to him, and deliver the Captain’s letter. From our shabby dress and dirty appearance, he for a moment eyed us with suspicion; but having opened the letter, his countenance assumed an expression of benevolence and pity. He shook hands with us, called for wine and water; and we immediately saw in him all those characteristics which endear us to one another. He then left us to consult the Intendenté, and deliver the letter we brought from the officers at Arauco: he did not return till 6, when we dined; and the circumstances attending the wreck formed the subject of our conversation, as Captain Seymour’s letter put him only in possession of the bare fact. At 11 we each took a tepid bath, and “turned in” to comfortable beds, the Consul having previously left us to pay his last visit to a dying native, and did not return till 4 in the morning, when he awoke me, and related a few particulars connected with his visit, and the customs of the people in such a case. This story was not at all calculated to strengthen the nerves of a person whose whole system had recently been severely shaken, nor calculated to prepare him for the shock of an earthquake which at this moment threatened destruction. This shock roused me; under the influence of great alarm, I jumped out of bed, and was about to escape from the house, when the Consul called out, “It’s over!” and I returned to my bed, but too much frightened to expect more sleep. The Consul told us they had been visited with shocks, more or less severe, ever since the great earthquake, which amongst the natives appears to mark an epoch, as in conversation they date every thing so many days before or after “the earthquake.” The 24th and 25th were employed in busily writing with the Consul, who determined on accompanying us to the wreck; and requested our whole assistance in preparing despatches for the Consul-general at Santiago, and other persons likely to be the means of affording relief to the unfortunate crew. I need not say that our undivided attention to this and other services was commanded by this gentleman, in order to expedite our return to the wreck, which was his most anxious desire, his whole head and soul being in the hope of relieving or rendering assistance to his distressed countrymen, fully aware that even if they had all succeeded in reaching the shore in safety, there was great danger to be apprehended of an attack by the Indians, should they come upon them by surprise, or if they had not been able to save the means of defence against that vindictive race of savages, who on former disasters had plundered the unfortunate crews of four vessels wrecked upon their coast, and who were more particularly to be feared at this season of the year, as that intoxicating drink chichi is plentiful; and when excited by this beverage they make desperate attacks on horseback, armed with spears of bamboo from twenty to thirty feet in length, and are not an enemy to be trifled with.

May 26.—The despatches, having been completed at a late hour last night, were sent off this morning at 4 o’clock by an extraordinary courier, who was to be rewarded for his services according to his expedition: if he reached Santiago in seven days, he was to have forty-five dollars, but if in less time, five dollars more for every day less than seven, and decreased in the same proportion for every day more than seven. We were, until five in the afternoon, engaged in preparing for our journey to the wreck, purchasing presents to conciliate the Indians, indigo and other articles to traffic with them, and hiring mules, horses, and servants, to take charge of and guard the numerous things the Consul thought might be of service to the crew, whom he supposed might be destitute. We left Concepçion at half-past five, and rode to the bank of the river, intending to cross and sleep at San Pedro that night; but to our disappointment the launch had gone over, and we were obliged to return to the Consul’s house, where we dined and retired early, purposing to start at daybreak next morning.

Wednesday, 27.—Arose, took an early breakfast, and crossed the river. We were delayed at San Pedro till 2 P.M. in arranging loads for the mules, hiring horses, &c.; at sunset had only reached the extreme end of the plain before described.

We stopped at the house of a gentleman well known to the Consul, but who at this time was at Santiago. His major-domo, however, offered the use of the house to the Consul, which he declined accepting, or putting him to any trouble more than to prepare a supper, and allow us to arrange our beds inside the corridor. We made a hearty supper; Camilo messing with us, and treated as a valuable friend by the Consul, who placed every confidence in his honesty, and, from his better knowledge of the country people and Indians, intrusted to him the entire arrangement of the journey. After supper, in the course of conversation, it was agreed that Mr. Lane and Camilo should precede us with letters to Captain Seymour and the commandant of Arauco, acquainting them with our proceedings. The letters were written, and we retired to rest.

At daylight, on the 28th, Mr. Lane and Camilo set out, the former to be guided by Camilo’s son, Antonio. The Consul and myself proceeded at 9 on our journey, but found some difficulty in getting the mules on, the rains having rendered the roads almost impassable, the mules constantly falling, and requiring to be relieved of their burdens. Came to Colcura; and, in passing through Fuerte Viejo, I waved my hand to the pretty brunette; and, about 9, after a long and tedious journey, came to the Rio Carampanque, which we crossed about 10 o’clock; arrived at Camilo’s house, where we supped on roasted turkey, cascuella, and the roasted seeds of the Araucano pine; enjoyed our pipes, and retired to rest.

Friday, 29.—In no hurry to rise this morning: breakfasted at 10, and occupied three hours in loading the mules and hiring horses and additional mules for the conveyance of the shipwrecked crew. At 2 in the afternoon we took leave of Camilo’s family, and proceeded towards Arauco, where we arrived about 3; and dined with the Commandant Valenzuela, and the officers who were so kind to us on our way up. After dinner, a meeting of the friendly caciques was held at this gentleman’s house; when, through the means of an interpreter, they intimated to the Consul and Commandant their friendly disposition towards the shipwrecked crew, and their readiness to assist them. The Consul presented each of them with a jacket, some indigo, tobacco, and Jew’s harps, together with some trinkets for their wives. The Commandant having made up his mind to accompany us to the wreck, we started at 5 o’clock, and about sunset came to a few ranchos on the top of a hill, called Mitmessin: here we supped, and retired to bed; but passed a miserable night, in consequence of its blowing a gale from the northward, and the rancho being neither wind nor water tight.

Saturday, 30.—Arose and breakfasted; it still blowing hard, and raining heavily: our anxiety greatly increasing for the safety of the crew. At 10 took leave of our friends, and arrived at the Indian pueblo of Albarado at 11, and went to the rancho at which we slept on our way up. Here we found the people celebrating a festival—singing and dancing in a frightfully savage manner, all more or less intoxicated with chichi. They would not allow us to proceed until we acknowledged our friendship by partaking of some of their chichi. We then lit our pajitas, and, about 3, crossed the river, which we found running very rapidly, the current being increased by the heavy rains. I stopped a few minutes at the house of Camilo’s major-domo: the inmates welcomed my return; but I was obliged to hurry my visit, and rejoin the party. We arrived at Lumaco at 6, having passed the troop of mules, which were to remain at the major-domo’s house should night overtake them. We dismounted perfectly drenched, it having rained incessantly during the day, dried our clothes by the fire, supped, and retired to rest, with the consolation that we were only a short day’s journey from the wreck.

Arose at daybreak, it still blowing and raining; waited till 10 for the mules, when they arrived. The servants having breakfasted, at half-past 11 we mounted, and at 2 came to the Rio Leubu, which we crossed in a much better conveyance than we did in our way up; the Consul having brought a large batsa, and a man to manage it, in the hope of assisting the shipwrecked crew in transporting parties and baggage across the rivers. The Consul, Camilo, and myself having crossed, we hurried on our way to the wreck, leaving the mules to follow.

About 5 we arrived; and I introduced the Captain to the Consul, who presented the Commandant, and was gratified by the kind welcome of my shipmates and fellow-sufferers, who hailed us as the harbingers of their deliverance from the wretchedness and privations they had endured; and those only who have been placed in similar circumstances can imagine the delightful feelings produced by such a meeting: having left them surrounded by danger, and now finding them encamped in comparative safety on a mound of sand about 200 yards from the unfortunate ship.

Monday, June 1.—Wind light from the north. Several pieces of the ship’s bottom were picked up on the beach. The officers sent to examine the entrance of the Rio Leubu returned, bringing a favourable report on the objects in view. The Consul, with the governor, being convinced of the absolute necessity of instantly removing from our present encampment, the Captain and officers met in the presence of the Consul, for the purpose of drawing up a statement of the reasons which caused such a course (of abandoning the wreck) imperative. The opinion of all on this subject was unanimous.

The nature of the resolutions at this meeting will be understood by a perusal of them; they are signed by each person then present, and were prepared as a public document for the information of the Admiralty, if called for. Captain Seymour, feeling it his duty to protect the wreck as long as circumstances would permit, in order that a communication might be made to the senior officers for his decision on the case, also addressed a letter, through the Consul, to the governor of Arauco, requesting his authority, with a force from him to guard it from the inroads of the Indians, until the pleasure of the Commodore could be received. The reply to this request from the governor states his inability, from various insurmountable difficulties, to give the assistance asked for.

The decision of moving to the entrance of the Rio Leubu drew the attention of all to the necessary preparations. The crew were, therefore, variously employed in packing provisions for carriage on mules, a number of which, with many horses, had followed or accompanied the governor of Arauco. The sail-makers were employed in making small tents of a transportable size, the carpenters fitting poles for them; and spars were prepared to form sledges for the conveyance of heavy articles and casks, to be drawn by oxen, which we hoped, through the interference of the governor and the friendly caciques, to have driven down to our encampment for that purpose.

The officers examined into the state of the men’s clothing, and gave directions for every thing to be packed ready for a moment’s warning; and they were allowed to furnish themselves with bags, where wanted, out of certain sails, or canvass appropriated to that purpose. The crew, as well as the officers, being much distressed for shoes, the hides of the bullocks which we had been furnished with were carefully portioned out in pieces of a size to make moccassins, which, being laced on tight to the foot, soon assumed a form, and proved a convenient and excellent substitute in so important a want; and, during the latter part of our sojourn on the shores of Chili, were used almost universally.

At 1 P.M. Lieutenant Collins, with Mr. Macdonald, the master, was sent to the entrance of the Rio Leubu, to make a more particular examination, with reference to the safety of a ship’s approach to it. The former, furnished with a passport from the governor of Arauco, and a guide, was to proceed on to Concepçion, with a letter from Captain Seymour to the senior or naval officer there, or elsewhere, stating our intention of proceeding to the Rio Leubu, there to await succours for our removal by sea. Lieutenant Collins was furnished with an order from the Captain to this effect: that if he found, on his arrival at Concepçion, there appeared no early prospect of any naval officer having it in his power to come to our assistance, he was to use his endeavours to hire a vessel capable of embarking the crew, and bring her himself to our relief.

At sunset the weather was moderate and cloudy. The usual daily muster under arms was gone through, and preparation made for the night, on board the wreck as well as on shore.

Tuesday, June 2.—Light winds from the east, and fine weather. Mr. Macdonald returned from the entrance to the Leubu, confirming its advantages in favour of our measure of encamping there, as well as for embarkation. At noon, Lieutenant Tause, with an armed party to the number of about thirty men, including two midshipmen, started for the newly destined site of encampment, taking under their escort from thirty to forty mule-loads of provisions, tents, and various articles of baggage. We were most fortunate in a continuance of a few days of fine weather, as rain would almost have put a stop to our march, from the obstacles offered on the road. In one instance we had a mile to cut through an aged forest, whose solitude would appear to have reigned unbroken for centuries. The governor of Arauco was most attentive and vigilant in acquiring a knowledge of the movement and position of the hostile Indians, and constant spies were despatched to the hills south of us. A good number of mules and horses had been collected and driven to the vicinity of our camp, and great exertions were made, therefore, by all to expedite our march. Several of the caciques had consented to allow their bullocks to be yoked to assist the transport of our heavy baggage. Pinoleo, his wife and daughter, and followers, took another look at us this day, but did not remain any length of time, though they accepted a little rum and water previous to returning to the hills.

June 3.—Fine weather, light wind from N.E. We this day loaded about sixty mules, and, with poles lashed together, on which were secured casks, and other heavy articles, made up loads for eleven yokes of oxen; the whole of which started for the Leubu: a party of men in advance, to cut down the trees and clear the road for them. The difficulties which the oxen had to overcome, in dragging heavy loads through swampy ground and thick abrupt woods, were very great, and could only have been overcome by the steady perseverance and patience so characteristic of the Indians who guided them. Five caciques now arrived from different directions, and with many followers, for the purpose of having a formal interview with the Governor of Arauco, the Consul, and Captain. They were, Cheuquante, cacique of Molquilla; Pinoleo, cacique of Lumuco; Antinao, cacique of Arauco; Currinir, cacique of Tucapel; and Udalevi, cacique of Arauco (father of Antinao). Rafael Lobo was also present: he is the accredited interpreter for the Chilian government amongst the Indians of the district of Arauco, and is allowed to style himself Teuciente de la Reduçion di Tucapel. This interview was highly interesting, as displaying much of the character and manners peculiar to the Araucanian Indians: it lasted almost three hours; an interpreter, accustomed to the office, on the part of the governor, undertaking to make and receive the various communications that passed. The Indian language is not unpleasant, and reminded us a good deal of that of the South Sea Islands. Their mode of address, however, is very singular, in short abrupt sentences, on the latter words of which was laid a loud and peculiar emphasis. Before the conclusion of the meeting the Consul spread out his bundle of presents, consisting of strings of coloured glass beads, papers of indigo, tobacco, cotton printed handkerchiefs, and Jew’s harps, the whole of which were appropriately distributed, and received by the Indians with great apparent satisfaction, as offered by Mr. Rouse, the Consul, in the name of His Majesty the King of Great Britain. With the caciques came the infant child of one of them: the mode in which it was brought was singular. It was placed in a rude wooden box, framed something like a wooden coal-scuttle, contrived so as to make a snug fit for its little imprisoned inmate, whose head only was visible over the edge of the front; the back formed the handle, by which it was slung, by hide straps, to the Indian woman who took charge of it, and who, mounted on horseback, conveyed it away. On taking leave, the caciques went through the ceremony of a parting embrace with the governor, Consul, and Captain; which was by putting the right arm over the left shoulder, the left arm round the waist, under the right arm, the head resting on the right shoulder, and the contrary. They finally accepted from the Consul a small cask of Concepçion wine, with which they retired to the hills to drink.

June 4.—The weather continued quiet and fine. The Captain, taking with him a guide, started early this morning to examine the progress and position of our new encampment at the entrance of the Leubu. Advantage was taken of this day to transport our sick, eight in number, to the camp: they were mounted on the quietest horses we could procure, and made their journey very comfortably under the charge of Mr. Lane, the assistant-surgeon. The Captain returned towards sunset, highly satisfied with the judicious selection, by Mr. Tause the first lieutenant, of the spot, on which his exertions had made great progress towards the erection of tents for the reception of the crew, provisions, and stores. An attempt was made to-day to drag the cutter on spars beyond the promontory of land W.N.W. of the wreck, distant about a league, with the intention of watching an opportunity, if the surf should ever permit it, to launch her, under the shelter of a reef of rocks, and take her round to the entrance of the Leubu; but it was not persisted in, from the little chance of success; the strength and exertions of the crew being, also, of much more consequence for other purposes. The governor of Arauco had procured a small ox, which he presented to the Captain, and which we killed for the mess. Towards the evening a messenger arrived with despatches from Arauco for the governor, informing him that a body of 600 hostile Indians, under the cacique Cadin, were within two days’ march of us, and that 2000 more were assembled on the hills to support them. This intelligence, with other reports, was sufficient to keep us on the alert, and increased our desire to leave our present encampment for one where, we hoped, we should feel less apprehension of being molested. Spies were immediately sent in the direction of the hostile Indians. The usual preparations were made for the night, with a muster, and discharge and reload, of the small arms.

June 5.—Northerly winds and fine weather, with occasional fog. Busily employed in forwarding baggage to the Leubu, as our means of carriage permitted. The caciques came again in a body with their followers to pay another visit to us; occupying, most inconveniently, much of the valuable time of some of our party. A few more presents were found for them. A sort of apology was made to the governor for the unruly drunken conduct of a connection of one of the caciques on their former visit, when the interpreter drew his sword, and threatened to cut him down if he did not desist from interrupting him. The penitent Indian afterwards made himself very useful, in conducting and influencing other Indians in the transport with oxen of our baggage to the Leubu. The dress of the caciques was, in both their visits, not very different from their followers, except in the case of Pinoleo, whose costume has been already described, and Cheuquante, who looked not very unlike one of the monkies which the Savoyard boys exhibit in the streets of London; he having, by some means or other, furnished himself with what was meant for a cocked hat, with a cockade, a blue coatee with red cuffs and collar, and a very long sabre, and adding to his ridiculous appearance by his evident self-satisfaction.

A supply of rum and water, in a small cask, was given them; on which they took the hint, and retired to the hills.

June 6.—Moderate breeze from S.W., with thick foggy weather: the crew busily employed in collecting every useful article to pack for our newly destined camp; a party in the wreck clearing every part that could be got at of all worth the difficulty of transporting to the Leubu. The governor of Arauco earnestly requested that we would destroy any powder which we had saved over the full supply we moved with, lest it should fall into the hands of the Indians, when it would be turned to the serious disadvantage of the Chilian arms; he not having it in his power to take safe custody of it. Several cases of large-grained powder were consequently blown up, to the astonishment of the wonder-stricken Indians. A detachment of sixteen loaded mules again started this day for the Leubu. Sad complaints began to be made of the mice, and bitter denunciations against them; but their numbers overpowered every effort on our part to get rid of them. It was now not uncommon, in the morning, on putting on what had been a jacket, or other whole garment, at night, to discover the disappearance of a large portion of it,—the effects of the mice during the interval. To the canvass they were most destructive, eating large holes in all parts of our tents. Our force having been now much divided, we were most anxious to make a final march of all to our new camp. Our usual precautions were exercised in examining the arms and mustering watches.

Sunday, June 7.—Fresh breezes, and cloudy from the southward. It had been our intention this day to have abandoned our Molquilla encampment; but the failure of the means of carriage, the mules not having returned from the Leubu, prevented our accomplishing it. The tents were struck at daylight, cut up, and placed ready for transport. An express had reached the governor, requiring his return to his command at Arauco, and announcing that the second in authority there, the major of the troops, was on his road, by the concurrence of the Chilian government, to relieve him. This major arrived about mid-day. It being evident that it would be only by getting a detachment away to-day to Leubu that the final abandonment of Molquilla could be accomplished on the morrow, all the mules that were on the spot were laden and forwarded; and about 2 P.M. the captain, with Mr. Sarjeant, the major, and six men, quitted the now dismantled camp for the Leubu; having previously appointed a strong rear-guard, under the third lieutenant, Mr. W. K. Stephens, with Mr. Rouse, the Consul, consisting of a full quarter-watch, twelve marines, the surgeon, Mr. Mould, the second master, a mate, and a midshipman, to guard the few remaining stores, and to proceed as early as possible the next day to join our new camp. Great was the satisfaction felt by all at quitting a spot the scene of which embittered every recollection. The Captain and officers, on clearing the wreck, had got on shore the remains of their cabin furniture, which proved very acceptable presents to the governor and Chilino party, the late earthquake having destroyed the little they could previously boast of. The journey to the Leubu began by passing the promontory along the beach, on the north, to a distance of three leagues; then up an abrupt grassy slope to a thick forest of very old timber, ascending through it, for a mile and a half or two miles, to an open level country, from two to three leagues, covered with several species of dwarf myrtles and coarse grass, to a second and third patch of wood, and eventually to a short steep descent to a swamp, the western side of which skirted the slope and hill on which was situated our Leubu encampment: seventeen or eighteen miles was considered the whole distance.

June 8.—Southern bank of the entrance of the Rio Leubu. Fair weather, with light S.E. winds. The whole number of cargoes that were transported from Molquilla were 279 mule and 61 bullock-loads. The situation of our present encampment was the direct opposite of the last. From a flat deep sand, we were now on a steep declivity in the niche of a thick wood; the soil greasy and slippery, and in wet weather it was difficult to preserve a footing. The river Leubu ran into a bay about 200 yards below us. The system which had been practised at Molquilla was adhered to here; the men being carefully mustered every night at sunset, and their arms reported ready for immediate use: sentinels being placed at different points of the camp to prevent any Indian from entering it. Our tents were now reduced in size, and therefore more numerous. The crew was divided into one large tent, and ten small circular ones; four or five of the latter form being allotted for the captain and officers. The consul had brought a small tent with him, one in which he had been some time living at Concepçion after the earthquake. In the course of the day the party from Molquilla arrived; and we were once more united in our full force, and confiding in a hope that from this spot we should, ere long, be relieved. Two of the seamen who had lost their way in the fog on the hills, during their march from Molquilla, also had come into the camp. We had felt a little uneasy about them, and two Chilino guides on horseback had been despatched in search of them. They had passed the night in the woods. A pet English sheep, which had been saved and carefully protected by many friends amongst the crew, had also moved with them. He marched with them half the distance, with a pair of saddle-bags, which his friends had made for him, across his back, containing a supply, as Jack termed it, of provisions for his journey: on becoming tired, he was carried on a horse to his journey’s end. The evident intelligence displayed by this animal, on first landing from the raft, was very striking; he no sooner got on the beach than, turning to the wreck, he bleated in a most unusual and extraordinary manner. He had no fear of the Indian dogs, and would attack any that offered to come into the camp. His daily custom was to attend the grog tub, and he was sure of collecting a dinner from all quarters. “Jack,” as he was called by his messmates, was a Southdown sheep, taken from Portsmouth in 1833, as part of the Captain’s live stock. After passing over above 55,000 miles, in the course of two years, he was landed from the Conway, with the Challenger’s crew, at Portsmouth in 1835; and has now a run on his native soil for the remainder of his life.

The weather, which had so long befriended us, now began to threaten with those heavy rains, the effects of which we were afterwards to feel so severely; the tents proving very inadequate to protect us from them. The evening cleared the weather, and a bright moon was visible. The note of the horned plover was loudly heard. In allusion to this bird, we were told by the major, Signor Sylva, who had been on many expeditions against the Indians, that they had a superstition regarding the horned plover; which was, that if the note was heard on the right, it was to them a bad omen, and the contrary if heard on the left. The inmates of each tent had worked hard during the past day, to discover the means of keeping off the damp from below, as well as from above.

Tuesday, June 9.—Squally weather, with showers of rain; the wind N.W. A few Indians made their appearance at the camp, bringing, tied to their saddles, some nets of potatoes and apples for barter: also Rafael Lobo, with a present to the captain of some avellanos (a species of nut, the kernels of which the Indians roast, and are not unlike a small chesnut); and to establish a claim of some reward, for having given us his protection and assistance against the hostile Indians at Molquillo, as he then had assumed the command of the armed Indians, and had sent spies out to the southward. The seine, which had been carefully preserved, and brought to the Leubu, was this day tried in the river, but with no great success. At night, we afterwards found the attempts were more productive of luck. The few fish we caught were highly acceptable. The crew’s employment for this day was draining the ground round their tents; a party bringing stones from the beach at the entrance of the river, to lay as a footpath through the camp,—the rain having rendered it almost impossible to walk, from the swampy state of the ground; and in cutting down trees to form a barricade round the encampment. The greatest regularity was observed in the hours of breakfast, dinner, supper; and such issues of provisions made as the state of our store-tent, and the destruction of the mice, would permit. We had brought the ship’s bell with us, which was under the charge of the sentinel posted at the entrance of our camp, and who struck it regularly on receiving the time from the officer on guard. The lights in the ship’s company’s tents were reported as put out every night at 8, and the midshipmen and warrant officers’ at 9. None of the crew were allowed to go outside the barricade after 6 P.M. Having some spare canvass, with abundance of timber surrounding us, two tents were put up in the form of a house, with a good sloping roof, which we covered, and used, one as a mess tent for the Captain and officers, the other for the warrant officers and midshipmen. This description of tent we found superior in point of dryness to the usual form, and, after a short interval, others were put up by the officers: one was occupied by the captain, and shared with Mr. Sarjeant; and in another were four or five of the officers. However, though each day saw some of us endeavouring to give dryness to our habitation, the damp and wet proved unconquerable.

Signor Sylva made himself very useful to us, whenever his authority with the Chilinos or friendly Indians was called for. He expressed great satisfaction at being associated with British officers after a service of twenty-three years, a part of which time he had been campaigning against the Araucanian Indians. He related to us many histories of their undaunted courage, as well as some cruel acts of treachery which they had been guilty of towards the Chilinos, by deceiving them in an assurance of a friendly disposition towards Chili. The information which Signor Sylva gave, together with that from other sources, put the Indian population at about 40,000: scattered over a vast tract of country, mustering 8000 fighting men, but rarely bringing against the Chilinos more than from 2000 to 3000 at any one time.

On examining and taking an account of our stores, baggage, and provisions, the cunning of the Indians proved to have been too much for us. We discovered that there had been a great number of articles plundered on the road from Molquilla, particularly clothing and small parcels of private property. They had also attempted to secrete a cask of spirits, by dropping it in the woods, and not making their appearance at the camp. We, however, sent a party out, and, with a few mules, found the rum, and brought it away in small barrels.

On a high headland, immediately above the camp, we erected a flag-staff, on which we kept a flag constantly flying, and a strict look-out to seaward. This hill had a commanding view, not only of the sea, but over the surrounding country, including the river and camp; and was peculiarly adapted to our purpose, as a spot to establish our look-out. The ascent to it from the camp was abrupt and laborious, though only at a short distance. It was to be got at more easily by making a little circuit through the wood in the rear of us. The timber which composed the forests with which we were encircled was principally myrtle and evergreen oaks, and of great variety. Large tracts of land were free from timber; and the soil was filled with various bulbous roots, several specimens of grasses, abundance of strawberry plants, and an infinity of flowering shrubs and creepers.

The lateness of the season unfortunately prevented our seeing in flower much of what has been enumerated. On the north side of the river a plain extended to the hills, on which were several patches of maize growing, and a herd of horses and a few sheep grazing. Two Indian huts were also situated there, the inmates of which attended to the care of the stock and labour of the cultivated parts.

This plain was rented by a Chilian of Arauco from the Indian proprietor. The land is exceedingly rich; and, whenever the time arrives that Chili is able to extend her authority over the Indian territory, the result of even a moderate attention to agricultural pursuits must prove most beneficial. At present, the system pursued by the Chilian farmer, who is fully alive to the value of the Indian land, is, by fair means and persuasion, or bribery, to induce the caciques to allow him to rent his land, which they do for a mere trifle; the only use now made of it is as a run, for the increase of their cattle, which is the most important part of a Chilian land-owner’s property,—a Chilino’s riches being estimated in proportion to the number of cattle he possesses. The price of a bullock is about sixteen dollars. The policy of the government of Chili appears to be, to exterminate the race of Indians, and get forcible possession of the whole country south of their present frontier. In some instances the caciques have allowed a sale of a portion of their land, on obtaining the consent of their neighbours; but there exists a great jealousy of their doing so. The mice continued their destructive and annoying visits.

The morning after our first detachment had reached the banks of the Rio Leubu, one of the boys, furnished with a tin pot, sought out a spring of fresh water, which ran at the foot of the slope on which we were entrenching ourselves, for the purpose of drinking. An Indian rode up, and earnestly supplicated, by signs, his desire to drink. The boy handed the tin to him, which he no sooner got possession of, than he turned his horse, galloped off, and, swimming the river, was soon lost sight of amongst the opposite hills. At Molquilla, many articles thrown from the wreck, when washed on shore, were taken off the beach, under the ponchos of the Indians. The cunning mode in which they loaded themselves was very characteristic: they were seen to get off their horses, and lay down by the side of the longed-for object, which they gradually gathered up under their ponchos, and secured possession of by mounting their horses and galloping off to the hills.

Wednesday, June 10.—Fair quiet weather: the crew employed in strengthening our barricade, draining the camp, cutting wood, and drying their beds and clothing. The damp from the ground in our tents was very great, and some few complaints of rheumatism were heard. At 6 30′ A.M. we had a very severe shock of an earthquake. We saw but few Indians at our present camp, as compared with the numbers who used to surround us at Molquilla. As duty permitted, the officers were allowed to go out with their guns, by which we benefited in a supply of game for our mess, which was highly acceptable; and the important objects of a diversion of mind and health were gained by exercise over the surrounding country. We began to feel uneasy at not hearing, from some quarter, of a chance of relief; but we had been told by our friend Mr. Rouse, the Consul, on his first joining us, that we ought to make up our minds to pass the winter where we were, knowing the impassable state of the country at this season of the year lying between us and Concepçion, as well as Santiago; and hence a difficulty of communication with those to whom we might look for succour. At noon, a party of officers crossed the river in a balsa, which had been brought by the consul, with the hope of its being useful to us. They shot over the country north of us with tolerable success. Amongst the occupations for the crew, was the construction of a pier or wharf at the entrance of the river, by filling up the space between some scattered rocks; and intended to facilitate our embarkation, whenever that wished-for event might occur. The look-out hill was kept constantly occupied, and reports made regularly from it by the midshipmen stationed there. The mice continued most troublesome: the little bread we had left decreased every night from their visits, as well as our supply of sugar and peas; nor did the tents or clothing escape. It was difficult to get sleep at night in consequence of their rambles. No plan could prevent their getting into our beds, not even when raised on stakes, or in a cot slung off the ground. Their feet were formed like a lizard’s, and enabled them to climb in all directions, and along the smallest line or bough of a tree. Covered mole buttons seemed greatly to attract them, and one night would suffice them to run off with any number. In our inquiries of the natives, and others around us, as to the cause of such myriads of mice, we were told that the Indians supposed it originated from the effects of the late earthquake; having a tradition of a similar result on a former convulsion of the earth. Our supplies of potatoes and poultry were become scanty, from having consumed all that the immediate neighbourhood could furnish; it was become necessary to send to a distance for what could be collected. Don Bernardino procured for us two bullocks. The produce of our guns often formed a large part of our dinner: we were quite safe from want, having a good supply of salt beef and pork; our bread was, however, almost consumed, and we could only serve out to all one quarter of the daily allowance (a quarter of a pound). This shortly failed us, and potatoes became the substitute.

June 12.—The wind southerly, and fine weather. The crew airing clothing and beds, completing our pier, cutting wood for the cooks, and clearing the camp. A party of the officers shot over the country surrounding us, to the southward, with tolerable success; bringing in several partridges, snipes, and a few widgeons. At 5 P.M. the captain received, by way of Arauco, through the governor there, a letter from Lieutenant Collins, stating his inability to procure any vessel to come to our relief, and his intention to take an opportunity of returning with his guide to rejoin us at the Leubu, as he could get no intelligence whatever relative to the movements of any man-of-war on the coast. This was disheartening; but, as letters had been despatched to Santiago, we hoped, through the medium of the Chilian government, soon to have some satisfactory communication. Towards evening, after the usual muster of the arms had been gone through, a tolerably successful haul of the seine was got.

June 13.—The morning cloudy, the wind northerly; the tents very damp: a few small fires were lighted in, and at the entrance of, some of them, to endeavour to dry them. The caciques Cheuquante and Rafael Lobo paid us a visit to see what they could get from us, bringing an offering of some avellanos, which was their usual bait. They gave us the account of Pinoleo having killed the wife we saw at Molquilla. We this day received the two boat cannonades, which we had dismounted, and put in charge of some of the Chilino party, to be dragged over to us by four bullocks: they were now mounted one at each end of our encampment. The crew variously employed, cutting wood and stacking it on the flag-staff hill for signal-fires, and about the barricade round the camp. A small vessel was this day seen, from the hill, in the offing, passing to the southward. The weather, towards night, became dark and threatening, and the wind fresh in gusts from the northward.

June 14.—Strong winds from the northward, with heavy rain, which continued throughout the day, wetting the tents very much and causing excessive damp. The people employed in endeavouring to make better shelter for themselves. At 5 P.M. less rain, but moist and foggy: a good deal of surf falling into the bay below us outside the river. In the evening, mustered as usual. The weather cleared towards night, but continued to threaten more rain.

June 15.—Heavy rain during the night; wind about N.N.W., 8 A.M. The weather clearing, the Captain wrote a letter, which was forwarded to Concepçion, through the governor of Arauco, by a Chilino going in that direction, addressed to the senior or any naval officer; stating our situation, the ill success of Lieutenant Collins in hiring a vessel, and begging immediate relief. Repaired our flag on the hill, which the strong wind had blown away. As the weather permitted, all hands airing and drying clothes and bedding. The mice very troublesome, though we calculated that we destroyed at least 500 daily. The weather became squally towards the evening, with rain, thunder, and lightning.

June 16.—A bright morning, which was gladly hailed by all, and eager advantage taken of it to air and dry the numerous wet articles throughout the camp. Our small boat, the Dingy, had been dragged over from Molquilla, and was of great use on the river. It accidentally got adrift to-day, with a man in her, who, without the paddles, was carried past the entrance of the river, by the rapid current setting out, and narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces, by the surf, on the rocks outside: she was, however, secured eventually without any bad result.

Mustered under arms at sunset; discharged and reloaded them, as well as the cannonades. At 6 30′ P.M. Lieutenant Collins arrived, with a guide, on the opposite side of the river, whence we sent the balsa, and brought him over. The only information he brought was, a report that a man-of-war was expected at Valparaiso, where she would hear of our disaster, and, doubtless, take steps for our immediate succour. Several rats, of the opossum species, were seen about the camp, and a young one taken.

June 17.—Fine weather; the wind light and variable. Employed the crew in various ways; drying clothes, cutting wood, and ditching to drain the ground in front of the camp. A strong shooting party started over the hills above us, to the southward. At 8 P.M., the officer of the watch having reported that five guns were heard to seaward, and being ever anxious to attract the attention of any one passing near, to show our position, we fired five shot from our cannonades, accompanying each with a rocket, and lighted a large fire on the hill, where we also burnt a blue light: nothing, however, was seen, though many of us ran to the hill, in all haste, to discover the supposed sail; we therefore concluded that the noise of the sea on the rocks, below the hill, might have given rise to the mistake.

June 18.—Fine weather, with light variable winds. All hands employed in airing and drying bedding, &c., and as otherwise necessary. A party were despatched to reconnoitre the state of the wreck, which was found much displaced, from the effects of the late gales; and the flat, on which our camp had stood, showed marks of having been much overflowed. Many Indians were searching round the wreck, and stared hard at our party: they had their horses ready to decamp. Nothing in sight from our look-out hill. The glories of Waterloo were this day not forgotten by us, even in this wild and distant spot; the health of the Duke of Wellington being drank, with cheers, in the officers’ tent. Our companion, Signor Sylva, the Chilian major of Arauco, had heard of Napoleon and of the Duke of Wellington, and was quite eloquent on this occasion.

June 19.—Fine morning; wind variable. Mustered; examined, and took an account of the ship’s company’s clothing and bedding. The store-tent was this day examined, and an attack made on the mice. A shooting party went out to try the ground on the south bank of the Leubu; which, about a league from the entrance, begins to be thickly wooded on each side, presenting some very picturesque windings. On the tops of the hills overhanging the river, the views, inland, are very extended; and ranges of hills can be traced, till lost amongst the chain of the Andes; but not a vestige of a habitation is to be seen. A Chilino was detected, to-day, in attempting to introduce a strong spirit, peculiar to the province of Arauco, into the camp; and, knowing the threat which the Captain had, through Signor Sylva, held out against such a transaction, attempted to make his escape across the river; but his horse, being tired, failed him: the skin of spirits was, therefore, taken possession of, and emptied in the mud. Nothing in sight from the hill. The bay below us being smooth, the Dingy was sent out to sound, and found a depth of water for anchorage from nineteen to five fathoms, in a direction between the two points which formed it. The seine was hauled outside the river, and several fine fish, of the carbinu tribe, taken.

June 20.—Dark and cloudy weather, with showers of rain. Employed the ship’s company in making a road to the pier, laying on stones, and ditching it on each side. Though our sick list had happily continued low in number, there were many amongst the crew who were suffering from rheumatic attacks, the effects of the constant exposure to damp. Another reconnoisance was made of the wreck, which continued much as it had been in the former visit. Many Indians, strangers to us, from the southward, were engaged in examining it. The annoyance of the mice continued incessant, frequently obliging the crew to rise in the night to drive them from their beds, and preventing the possibility of getting rest. A few fish were again taken in the evening. At night, the weather moderate and cloudy: wind N.W.

June 21.—Cloudy, foggy morning. Mustered the crew by the open list. The Consul despatched a man to Concepçion, viâ Arauco, with letters. A brig hove in sight this morning from the signal-post; but, though we used all our endeavours to attract her attention, they were unsuccessful; and we had the disappointment of losing sight of her at dusk. The night promised to be calm and quiet.

June 22.—Moderate and cloudy weather, with an appearance of rain: the wind northerly. The crew employed road-making, and clearing up our camp. The Captain and a party of officers crossed the river; rode to the opposite point of the bay, to see a curious cavern, known to the Indians as having formerly given shelter to the notorious pirate and rebel, Benivedes, and his party, and who were for some time succoured by them against the wrath of the Chilian forces. The road to this cave was a difficult one, through an almost impassable wood, and down a steep declivity from the hills above it. It was large, and sufficiently spacious to contain 1000 or 1500 men.

The party, on their return, visited the Indians in the huts on the plain north of the river; and succeeded, under the authority and assistance of Sylva, in extracting from them a couple of fine turkeys, with which they returned to the camp: they sat some time in the huts, and got some well-roasted potatoes from the inmates. A mother, half naked, was suckling her naked infant; and poultry and dogs were moving about in all directions: a pile of maize straw was heaped, in a particular form, on one side, which appeared to be the sleeping place for the whole party, and common to all, and very dirty. The influence of Don Bernardino had procured us the luxury of milk; several cows having been driven down and swam across the river, and established at the huts immediately below our encampment, near the entrance of the Leubu, in one of which resided the old Indian proprietor of the ground which we were on.

June 23.—It blew a gale of wind from the northward during the night, with heavy rain, causing a good deal of surf to roll into the bay. It continued raining hard till towards the evening, when it became foggy, with less wind. The crew suffered much from the wet state of their tents and clothing, and the confinement occasioned by the rains. The want of warm clothing was much felt: every possible substitute was resorted to; one of which was, the turning the blankets of those who were fortunate enough to possess one into ponchos, by putting the head through a hole cut in the middle, and which, with the addition of a belt, was the usual dress of the sentinels and watch.

An occasional visit was made to our old Indian landlord, the landed proprietor over many miles of land around us: his family consisted of eight or ten in number of either sex, subject to his control; they lived in what appeared to us great misery, dirt, and smoke, with mud outside their hut a foot deep. A little ground maize, some shell fish, or potatoes, appeared to form their food. Several small patches of ground were cleared and tilled by them for raising grain and potatoes; but during our stay little attention was paid to these objects. Indolence is certainly allied to the character of the Indian. The old proprietor was never met without receiving from him the friendly sentence of salutation of “Mai, mai;” and in his manner, he appeared to have a great respect towards us. Our tents felt the gale very much, and the rain penetrated on all sides. The bay was also rough and unquiet, with a good deal of surf breaking on the beach. The evening was cloudy, with rain. At 11 30′ P.M. we were joyfully surprised by a hail from the opposite bank of the river in our own language, which elated all with a hope, that the time had now arrived when we might look for the means of at length abandoning our tedious and comfortless encampment. The Dingy was immediately launched, and passed over to the north side, and returned with Captain Fitzroy, of his Majesty’s sloop Beagle, a German pilot, a servant, and their guide. Captain Fitzroy, to whom we owe a debt of great gratitude for his zealous exertions in our behalf, had arrived at Concepçion in his Majesty’s ship Blonde, Commodore Mason, C. B., and had volunteered to come overland, and take back to the commodore a report of our situation. The state of weather, and season of the year, had rendered his journey difficult and perilous, from the unusually flooded state of several rivers which he had to pass on his route. He had experienced many falls, from the difficulty of preserving the path through the woods in the dark, during the latter part of his journey.

We now heard that the Commodore had arrived at Concepçion on the 20th, from Valparaiso, where our disaster had only been known on the 17th, a month after the event: that he had hired, to despatch to our relief, an American schooner (the Carmen) from Concepçion, and that we might expect to see her off the Leubu in the course of a few days. We did our best to find supper, a sleeping place, and dry clothes for Captain Fitzroy and his companions. It is not to be sufficiently expressed how much joy and cheerfulness was at once diffused throughout the camp.

Our relief we now looked forward to as near at hand.

June 24.—It rained hard during the night, but towards morning it cleared off. After examining the state of our situation, and consulting with Captain Seymour as to the expediency of the Blonde’s immediately proceeding to our assistance, Captain Fitzroy set off without delay on his journey, to return to Concepçion, and was fortunately favoured by an interval of fine weather.

Our sick list had increased but little; yet it was evident that many amongst the crew, as well as officers, were suffering greatly from the constant exposure to wet and damp. That it was not more felt is a matter of surprise: happily we had enough food and spirits, though our bread had failed us; and we had saved a cask of tobacco, which permitted smoking to be generally practised by all of us, and the benefit which arose from it was evidently great. The crew were employed in cutting and stacking wood for signal fires on the hill above the camp, and in drying clothes and clearing the camp: a party also thatching, with boughs of trees, the sentry boxes, to afford the men some shelter from the weather. We this morning received a report that the Indians had set fire to the wreck, and that it had burnt to the water’s edge. Towards night the weather became cloudy, with showers of rain.

June 25.—Hard rain during the night, but clearing since daylight. Signor Sylva, who had rendered himself of use in all cases where his authority was necessary, this day took his departure for Arauco, with our consent that he should do so; his presence now with us not being of sufficient consequence to detain him longer from his command at Aruaco: the influence of Mr. Rouse, the Consul, still with us, ensuring on all occasions the countenance and aid of the Chilian government, if wanted. Our friend Sylva found our rum particularly cordial to his taste, and his desire to have a small supply for his journey was granted. The crew was employed in drying bedding, &c., and scrubbing hammocks. We received a supply of potatoes, and a few cheeses, which we found very acceptable. Nothing in sight from the hills. The seine was hauled in the river, but without success. Erected a hut on the hill near the flag-staff, for the shelter of the party who were now posted regularly there throughout the night, to keep the signal fires supplied with fuel. Three midshipmen were permanently established in this hut, which was large enough to hold the party of men who joined them every evening, at dusk, to arrange the fires. Some of the officers, who were rambling over the hills above the camp, discovered the skulls and skeletons of several Indians. They were accounted for by the Chilians, as some of the many who fell in the time of the rebel Benivedes, who, with the Indians to assist him, had made this neighbourhood the scene of many battles against the Chilinos.

June 26.—It rained throughout the night, and drenched the camp, causing most serious discomfort to the sick and invalids. Two officers were despatched to ascertain the truth of the report of the burning the wreck, which was confirmed on their return, scarcely a vestige remaining. The force of the surf had washed up on the beach several of the tanks, which the Indians were examining. The crew employed in drying and airing clothes and bedding. The mice continued their destructive attacks on us. At 5 P.M. a sail was reported to be in sight from the hill in the N.N.W. direction, and there existed little doubt that it was the schooner Carmen, on her way to find us. Most unfortunately, the weather becoming foggy and squally, she was soon lost sight of, and our only hope of attracting her attention was by making large fires, which was immediately done, and kept burning all night, but with ill success. A fine condor was shot by one of the midshipmen on the hill. It was one of several which were constantly hovering over our camp. Some of our sick began to exhibit symptoms of fever, and caused us to feel an increasing anxiety to be relieved; for we could not ensure a dry bed for a sick person, and the surgeon was much abridged in the necessary medicines. At sunset, mustered under arms. The night squally, with hard rain.

June 27.—Continued heavy rain, with thunder and lightning, causing the greatest possible discomfort to us; the weather so bad, that the crew could be employed only in their tents, and were suffering much from the wet. The fires had, with great difficulty, been kept burning during the night. The evening still dark, cloudy, and threatening.

June 28.—No improvement in the weather, the rain falling heavily. Our camp in a deplorable condition, and the crew prevented from employment and exercise. The sick not improving, and several instances of despondency amongst them. The night promising no prospect of fairer weather.

June 29.—Wind N.W. and N. Still raining, and with no appearance of its clearing. Our camp in a worse state than ever, and our situation becoming hourly more serious and anxious, from our want of comfort and protection for the sick, whose numbers were increasing. Towards evening it rained less heavily, and the crew were employed in cutting fire-wood for the cooks and the hill. At night it was dark and cloudy, with a dense fog.

June 30.—Wind northerly and N.W. Drizzling rain, with fog: nothing in sight from the hill. The necessity of drying clothes and bedding had become so great, that the crew were employed in lighting large fires in the neighbouring wood, to endeavour to effect this object; and, though a novel one, and in a damp fog, it succeeded tolerably well. The officers could not now stroll far, and our supply of game was at an end. Occasional visits to the Indian hut below us were sometimes paid. To day, our little old Indian proprietor was squatted before his fire in the centre of his hut, which was full of smoke, poultry, and dogs, making a net, for holding potatoes or apples, out of strips of coarse rushes, that grow abundantly in the neighbourhood. A native of Arauco rents of him land to the extent of from 4000 to 6000 acres, for the value of ten dollars annually; used as a run for a few horses and cattle, but liable to a visit from the more southern or hostile Indians. Two or three of the grown up females usually paid a daily visit to a spring situated in the wood joining our camp, with calabashes, and aided each other in washing their heads and hair, to which they appeared to pay great attention; a considerable time being occupied in the examination and arrangement of the back hair, which was dark and very long, bound up in the form of the old-fashioned queue, with a band comprised of coloured worsted threads, and allowed to hang down the back, and terminating with many little ornaments of brass or glass beads. Mustered, as usual. The weather dark and foggy.

July 1. 1835.—Wind northerly. The weather thick and misty. The crew had again recourse to lighting large fires in the wood, to dry their bedding and clothes. Nothing yet in sight from our look-out. Our sick list numbered about eleven, who were seriously ill, but many more were complaining from rheumatism; but the hope, which was kept alive, of our being succoured made them bear their pains patiently. Mustered our arms as usual, and prepared and lighted the signal fires on the hills. The evening proved dark and foggy.

July 2.—Wind N.W. and N. The weather remained thick, with rain at times. Nothing visible in the offing: and our hope of seeing the schooner at an end. As the weather permitted, the crew were occupied in preparing wood for the camp and hill fires. A supply of potatoes arrived from the northward for us, and proved most seasonable, as our stock was nearly exhausted. One addition was made to our sick list; Mr. Lane, the assistant surgeon, was amongst the seriously ill with fever. A portion of clothing, &c., was dried by fire during the day. The weather cleared towards evening, and at intervals the moon was seen, which, for a length of time, with us, had been a rare occurrence.

July 3.—Wind north-westerly and calm; the morning thick and foggy, but inclined to clear at times on the horizon at sea, with a prospect of better weather. At 1 30′ P.M. two guns were distinctly heard from the look-out hill, by the captain and several officers who were there, in the south direction, and apparently not more distant than six or eight miles. Several of us walked along the cliff bordering on the sea, for some miles to the southward, watching anxiously for the weather to clear away, and discover a sail; but nothing was seen. The mice continued our enemies, and habit in their case did not overcome the annoyance they were to us; at night particularly, in disturbing our sleep. One of the sentinels was taken ill to-day on his post. No further increase of our sick list. A party of the officers gathered enough wild turnip-tops for our mess dinner, which proved very acceptable. At sunset, discharged arms and cannonade, and reloaded for the night. All anxiously looking for some relief. A part of our stock of blue lights was placed in the hut on the hill, in case they might be wanted as signals to any ship appearing at sea.

July 4.—Wind light and westerly. This was the first clear morning we had witnessed for many days, and it cheered us to see once again the sunshine. Some more turnip-tops were gathered for our dinner to-day on the hills; this, though apparently trifling, was in our situation very acceptable. Discharged arms as usual at sunset, and reloaded for the night.

An altitude obtained to-day on the sand at the entrance of the Leubu gave us a latitude of 37° 36′ S., which proved to be many miles north of our situation as shown on the old Spanish chart. A tolerable haul of fish was got outside the river. The crew busily employed in airing and drying their clothes and bedding, and in holding themselves prepared at any moment to embark; orders to that effect having been given for some days past, as well as preparations made for moving our baggage from the camp to the pier. The necessity of separating our sick from their companions, who were still in health, caused us to set about erecting a large hut in imitation of that of the Indians, endeavouring, if possible, to thatch it in a similar manner with the common rushes that grow in great abundance very near us, and thus afford to the sick shelter from the rains. To this end the united strength of our carpenters and the greater part of our crew was employed in felling trees of a convenient size to form uprights for the sides and rafters, for the purpose of a good sloping roof; cutting and collecting also the rushes for thatch; and so earnestly did we set about the work, that the whole frame of the hut, which was secured together with strands of rope-yarns, was near its completion by the evening. Several flocks of parrots visited us this morning, and continued their flight and noise round our camp for some hours: two of them were shot. Don Bernardino complained to us of the difficulty he found in getting a supply of potatoes, arising from the great distance they had to be brought, and in many instances the ravages committed on the crops by the mice. Our sick list remained stationary; several of the crew were in a weak state, and with the assistant-surgeon and three midshipmen were most seriously ill, with what now looked like typhus fever. At sunset went through our daily muster; the weather cloudy, but dry; wind light and variable.

July 5.—The wind light from the southward, and the weather clear. At 7 30′ A.M. a sail was reported in sight from the look-out on the hill: this joyful sound opened the ears of all; and when, after a most anxious examination, through the few glasses we possessed, she was pronounced to be a man-of-war, it was received by a cheer throughout the camp, and every heart expanded with joy at the gladdening prospect at length opened to us. Large fires were lighted on the hill, and all possible demonstration made to show our position. About 10 A.M. we had the satisfaction of making out His Majesty’s ship Blonde, and observing her hoist her colours, and fire two guns as a signal that we were seen. Orders were now given to prepare for embarkation; all hands were therefore employed in removing to the pier our heavy baggage, in which we were much expedited by our having made several sledges adapted to this purpose, and dragged by the crew. Towards noon four boats were seen to leave the Blonde, but the distance they had to row prevented their reaching our little landing place inside the entrance of the river until it was too late to risk any embarkation. The first boat that arrived brought our tried friend Captain Fitzroy, who, agreeing with Captain Seymour on the propriety of deferring our operations until daylight next morning, immediately returned to the Blonde to communicate to Commodore Mason the arrangement that had been made, fortunately getting to the ship soon after dark, taking with him a second boat’s crew of the Challenger’s men, to supply the place of those who were to remain on shore with the three boats, which we had hauled up on the banks of the Leubu, and secured for the night. Captain Seymour had also sent an officer with Captain Fitzroy, to give to the Commodore every information he might require as to our condition and readiness for embarkation.

During the day there arrived on the north bank of the Leubu a guard of thirty infantry from Arauco, under the command of an officer, sent by the authorities there to be at our service: however, as most happily our period of encampment was about to be put an end to, they bivouacked on the opposite bank of the river, the officer crossing and taking up his quarters with us, and receiving our thanks for his exertions in our cause, and a letter from the Consul to the government authorities at Arauco, expressive of our warm acknowledgment for their kind attention towards us. Some showers of rain fell in the evening, but the night promised fair and clear weather.

July 6.—Wind S.E., with clear weather. Nothing could have happened more providentially for us than the favourable manner in which we were this day circumstanced with regard to the wind and weather, and which permitted the Blonde at 9 A.M. to anchor off the point below our signal hill. We had at daylight launched and loaded the Blonde’s three boats, and immediately despatched them; had struck the tents, lashed up our bedding and clothing, and brought all to the pier, ready to put into the boats as they arrived.

Many of the sick were sent off in the fastest rowing boat of those which were first despatched. Towards the middle of the day, the Commodore landed and visited the remains of our camp, and by 6 P.M. every one, with the whole of our baggage, was embarked, the last two boats having taken off the Captain, Mr. Rouse the Consul, and five officers with the marines, who had, as consistent with our previous system of caution, been retained to the last as a rear-guard, and only discharged their muskets as they left the scene of our long and cheerless encampment.

It can fall to the lot of few to experience the varied sensations occasioned by our sudden transition to a man-of-war, and our restoration to those comforts to which we had so long been strangers; allied, it is to be hoped, with thankful hearts to the Almighty for the abundant mercies vouchsafed towards us. We shall long cherish recollections of the very kind attentions paid by the officers of the Blonde to our wants and comforts. We were under weigh soon after dusk for Concepçion.

July 7.—When about to enter the port of Concepçion, we observed a schooner to leeward, under jury-masts: on going to her relief she proved to be the Carmen, which the Commodore had despatched from this port to our assistance. In her way to the Leubu, that river being incorrectly laid down in the chart, she had run past it; and having been dismasted in a heavy squall, and drifted into the current which had proved fatal to the Challenger, was for some time in danger of sharing her fate on the Isle of Mocha. The Blonde towed her into Talcuhuana Bay, where and at Concepçion we were eyewitnesses to the wide-spreading devastation occasioned by the late earthquake. The Commodore, with Captains Seymour and Fitzroy, made visits to the Chilian authorities at Concepçion, for the purpose of thanking them for the attentions and assistance we had experienced, connected with our shipwreck.

An old English inhabitant of the city of Concepçion described the earthquake as having taken place at a time when he was in the street fronting his house, overlooking the labour of some workmen in building a wall that was to enclose it. It was a clear sunny morning, and about twenty minutes after eleven: he suddenly found himself unable to stand from the heaving of the earth, which increased so much that he fell to the ground; and there, on his knees and hands to steady himself, he remained in a dense cloud of dust, which precluded the possibility of seeing any of the surrounding objects, until the first dreadful shock had passed. The shrieks and cries of the inhabitants, which had accompanied the destruction of the city, continued to be heard far and near; and the scene which presented itself, on the clearing of the dust caused by the falling of the buildings, was one of the most appalling desolation. Parents and children, relations and friends, were searching for each other in that distraction of mind which terror, anxiety, and apprehension for their safety at such a calamitous moment created. Not a building remained standing of the late city of Concepçion: high and low, rich and poor, were mingled in an overwhelming destruction. The ruins of a church and a convent, erected by the old Spaniards on a most magnificent and substantial scale, and which had withstood for ages the frequent shocks of previous earthquakes, with which the southern continent of America is so peculiarly afflicted, were scattered on all sides, and presented to the beholder a most striking and fearful assurance of the vanity, as well as the instability, of all that is created by the hand of man.

At Talcuhuana, the village which is situated on the border of the bay forming the anchorage for shipping, communicating with Concepçion, and about six miles from that city, the sea rose between thirty and forty feet, and came in, in one great wave immediately following the movement of the earth; landed a schooner at the back of the houses; and retiring, swept every thing before it; the inhabitants only escaping to the hills with their lives. Numerous articles were found on an island at the entrance of the bay of Talcuhuana, twelves miles distant from the village; and, most singular to relate, amongst them, lying on a sandy beach, was a large window frame, recognised by its owner, with the sash and glass unbroken. Several volcanos were seen to rise outside the bay, which, after burning with violence for twenty minutes or more, sank again below the surface of the water.

Our informant was a man of seventy-five years, married, but had no family; he had experienced, in the course of his long life, the most severe reverses of fortune; and had retired from the coast of Peru, with the little resources his labours had allowed him to collect, to end his days on a small spot of ground he had purchased in the city of Concepçion. With the destruction of the city perished the greatest portion of his property; yet, despite of such a misfortune, there was visible that beautiful contentedness of mind which is alone to be derived from an acquiescence in whatever affliction the hand of the Almighty is pleased to send us. It must not be omitted to mention, that Mrs. ——, the wife of this gentleman, recovering from the panic of fear, got out from the ruins of their house a part of that day’s dinner, which was eaten, in thankfulness and tranquillity, under a tree in the court-yard adjoining the remains of their dwelling.

The effects of this calamitous earthquake were not confined to the immediate neighbourhood of Concepçion, but were also particularly severe at the island of Juan Fernandez, distant 300 miles in a W.N.W. direction. The sea, there, advanced as in Talcuhuana Bay, and totally destroyed the few buildings which were in the occupation of the military governor and Chilian garrison. On the sea retiring, a volcano rose in the anchorage, and continued burning for some time. It was also reported that the island had sunk many feet below its former level.

The island of Santa Maria, situated near the spot of the Challenger’s wreck, was found, on examination, to have been upheaved ten feet; and the anchorage which had previously existed between it and the main land was no longer considered safe.

On the 9th we sailed from Concepçion, taking leave of Mr. Rouse, our worthy Consul, who left us, carrying with him the warm esteem and respect of all. During the whole time since his entering into communication with us, we had benefited by his able services: added to his official tact, his urbanity and kind disposition had endeared him to all classes; and should his assistance be called for under a calamity similar to our own, the unfortunate will find an efficient friend in the British Consul at Concepçion. After touching at Valparaiso, where two of our sick companions were sent to sick quarters, and performing the melancholy duty of burying Mr. Lane, the assistant-surgeon, who had sunk under the effects of typhus fever, the officers and part of the Challenger’s crew embarked on board His Majesty’s ship Convoy at Coquimbo; whence we sailed on the 22d July, cheered by the Blonde, and our own pleasing anticipations of soon meeting the congratulations of our friends, and the sympathy of our generous countrymen.

Including our stay of one week at Rio de Janeiro, we completed our passage to Spithead in eighty-four days, during which the inconveniences of a crowded ship were obviated by the attentions to our accommodation, and the arrangements kindly made by Captain Eden. Amongst the sick during this period, of whom the young gentlemen formed a large portion, Mr. Fry, a supernumerary clerk, died; the others, with a few exceptions, shortly became convalescent.

The misfortune of the Challenger may not be without a moral bearing. Our costly experience may prove useful to future navigators upon this dangerous coast. With the civilised portion of the inhabitants of a country of growing commercial importance, the British character has been upheld; and the many relics of our disaster left with the rude natives, during our long sojourn amongst them, will tend to perpetuate the event; and in their remote traditions may figure, as a leading tale, the fate of the “Desafiador,” and the adventures of her crew on the plains of Molquilla.

It remains but to add the result of the Court Martial, which was held on the 19th of October, on board His Majesty’s ship Victory, at Portsmouth harbour, by order of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, for the trial of Captain Seymour, the officers, and crew of His Majesty’s late ship Challenger, for their conduct in the loss of that ship.

The sentence pronounced on that occasion, so honourable to the feelings of all, was as follows:—

The President then rose and said, “Captain Seymour, I have much pleasure in returning you your sword, and may you continue to wear it with honour to yourself and advantage to your country.—Mr. MacDonald, I have equal pleasure in returning you yours.”

The Court Martial excited a great degree of interest, in which sympathy for the officers and ship’s company of the Challenger for the hardships they had endured had a considerable share.

APPENDIX.

At the encampment on the beach of Molquilla, in front of and near to the wreck of His Majesty’s ship Challenger, Michael Seymour, Esq., Captain, on the first day of June, 1835, at a meeting held by the undersigned captain and officers of His Majesty’s said ship, in the presence of Henry William Rouse, Esq., His Majesty’s Consul in the province of Concepçion, to take into consideration the actual situation and condition of the said ship, the state of her remaining stores, provisions, and furniture, as well those still on board, as those landed, for the purpose of adopting such measures as would be most proper, under existing circumstances, for the benefit of his Majesty’s service, and the health and security of the crew; after full and mature deliberation, the following resolutions were agreed to unanimously:—

First,—That the condition and situation of the hull of the said ship since the moment of her striking the ground on the 19th ultimo up to the present period (as proved by repeated surveys taken) has afforded no kind of hope that any exertions could have removed her from the beach where she now lies; and even were this possible, she would not swim from the injury she has received. Also, that neither vessels nor boats can with any kind of safety approach the wreck; neither can boats live in the surf outside.

That from the period of the ship grounding, a high rolling sea, commencing at nearly a mile to seaward, has continued with more or less violence to drive her further on the beach; she now lies imbedded in sand at a depth of about ten feet, the drawback of the surf leaving her at times nearly dry as far as the gangways. To steady her in her present position, a stream chain has been bent to an anchor buried in the sand on the beach; and by working the hand and chain pumps, various descriptions of provisions and small stores, which have withstood the effects of wet, have been got out of the holds, and landed for present consumption. The whole frame of the ship is much loosened, the fastenings of the iron knees on the main and lower decks, with the butts and scarphs of the shelves, clumps, and waterways on both decks have started; the copper much wrinkled throughout, many sheets being forced off about the fourteen foot draught; the rudder is gone, the pentles short off, and the deck and deck transern started. The great serious injury done to the ship is from about the main chain lockers, to the fore hatchway, where she is bilged, the keel, keelson, and flooring being forced up, the supporters in the holds upset, and when labouring in the surf, previously to her driving so far up on the beach, the lower midship parts, with the chain cables and tanks, worked as if about to separate from the upper body of the ship. Several pieces of the bottom planking, which appear to be of her garboard streak, and above it, have been washed up on the shore.

Secondly,—That many of the stores have been thrown overboard to lighten the ship, or to save the crew; of the remainder, most are damaged, and the sails, ropes, and spars, from absolute necessity, have been consumed or rendered useless by the injury received in forming barricades for defence against the Indians, and shelter for the crew. A few of the heavier stores remain on board: such as spare topmasts, topsail-yards, hemp and chain cables, eight or ten guns, &c.; but under the circumstances above mentioned, the only useful objects to be borne in mind are the preservation of the lives of the crew, and the salvage of as many stores, provisions, and furniture as possible: for these purposes an encampment has been formed on the beach in the only situation capable of any defence from the Indians, protected by, and itself protecting, the wreck.

Thirdly,—That this encampment, however, is open to many objections. It is situated on a low mound of sand, nearly surrounded by marshy flats, exposed to the overflowings of the sea, and even to be swept away by its rising; a calamity which we understood afflicted Talcuhuano, and many parts of this coast, after the great earthquake on the 20th of February last. It is now the middle of winter, and heavy and continued rains must be hourly expected. Swarms of large mice threaten the tents and provision with destruction. The position is consequently both unhealthy and insecure. Reports, too, are frequently brought to the encampment of attacks meditated by the more southern Indians, which tend to harass the men by making it necessary to keep them under arms. Should such an attack be successful, the only retreat is into a heavy broken surf on the rear, in which no boat can live; or if the Indian attack fail, the tents might be burnt in the encounter, and the encampment blockaded and starved out, before the only aid, if aid might be expected, could arrive from the garrison of Arauco, said to be distant about ninety miles.

Fourthly,—That all these considerations forbid the hope of maintaining the present position near the wreck, until assistance can be received from any of His Majesty’s ships: as from the report of the country people, and of His Majesty’s Consul, confirmed by the examination made by supernumerary Lieutenant Rothery, it appears that the mouth of the river Leubu seems to afford an anchorage and facilities for commanders of ships coming to the aid of the crew of His Majesty’s ship Challenger, this meeting is unanimously of opinion, that to preserve the lives of the crew, and as the best means of saving as much as possible of the stores, provisions, and furniture of the ship, it is absolutely necessary immediately to abandon the wreck, and remove with the crew, and such stores, provisions, and furniture as may be transportable, to some convenient situation at the mouth of the Leubu; that this course will be attended with the least expense to the public, for the mouth of the Leubu is distant only about twenty miles, and half the road is over a hard sandy beach, presenting less difficulties than by way of Arauco to the port of Talcuhuano, said to be distant about 150 miles, and over roads known to be exceedingly bad, and almost impassable in the winter season.

Fifthly,—That this meeting would, therefore, recommend in addition to the foregoing, that the second lieutenant and master should be sent to examine a second time the mouth of the Leubu; and should the report of those officers confirm that of supernumerary Lieutenant Rothery as to the before-mentioned capabilities of the mouth of the Leubu, then that Lieutenant Collins should proceed with all despatch to the port of Talcuhuano, there to act upon the orders and instructions, a copy of which is hereunto annexed under the No. 1., and that the master should return to the wreck to confirm its capabilities for the objects in view.

Sixthly,—In this stage of proceedings His Majesty’s Consul repeated what he had previously mentioned in the course of discussion; namely, that the government of Chili was in actual state of warfare with a part of the Araucano tribes, who occupy the central part of the Indian territory, and that a great deal of disaffection towards Chili prevailed amongst the southern tribes of the coast about the rivers Tirua and Imperial; a disaffection which kept in a constant state of alarm the small garrisons in the ruined fort of Arauco: that from the most correct intelligence recently obtained, it appeared that a Cacique, named Cadin, at the head of about 2000 Indians from Tirua and Imperial, had actually been on his march to attack and plunder the wreck, when his progress was accidentally arrested by the march of the friendly Cacique Colissi at the head of a formidable party from the interior: that this accidental circumstance had certainly averted immediate danger; but as Colissi had retired to Puren after contenting himself with the insignificant plunder of a small tribe of his enemies, it would not be prudent to consider the encampment as secure from attack: that true it was, the government of Concepçion had directed the military commandant of Arauco to detach a force sufficient to protect the wreck; but it was well known that officer was in no condition to afford any effectual assistance in this manner; and that it would be as well to take into consideration what kind of enemies the Araucanos were, the distance of Molquilla from the Chilian frontier, and the advanced state of the season, which rendered the roads to Arauco exceedingly difficult, and almost impassable for shipwrecked seamen, and the transportation of stores. His Majesty’s Consul added, that he concurred in the correctness of all the preceding observations as to the situation of the encampment.

Whereupon it was also resolved, that the Consul should be requested to make application to the military commandant of Arauco, now present at the encampment with a few militia, soliciting, that whenever it became necessary to abandon the wreck, he would be pleased to station there a force sufficient for its protection, and that of the remaining stores, until such time as the senior officer in the Pacific should be able to take measures for saving as much as possible; and also that public notice should be given to the effect, that all persons who might succeed in saving any part of the wreck or its remaining stores for the benefit of His Majesty’s government, would be rewarded with the customary salvage upon bringing the same to a place of security, and delivery to any of His Majesty’s Consuls.

To the truth of the aforegoing we are ready to make oath when required, and in witness whereof we hereunto subscribe our names to this and two others of the same tenor and date, at the place, and on the day, month, and year first and before mentioned in the presence of His Majesty’s Consul aforesaid, who has also subscribed his name hereto.

M. Seymour, Captain.
H. Tause, Senior Lieutenant.
W. J. Collins, Second Lieutenant.
W. K. Stephens, Third Lieutenant.
Geo. Alex. Rothery, Supernumerary Lieutenant.
John M’Donald, Master.
John Arnold Mould, Acting-Surgeon.
J. P. Sarjeant, Purser.
A. S. Booth, Mate (in charge of a watch).
J. W. Lane, Assistant-Surgeon.
Joseph Jagoe, Clerk.
Alex. Barclay, Carpenter.

H. W. Rouse, Esq.,
H. M. Consul in the Province of Concepçion.

(Copy.)—Mem. No. I.

The object of your journey to Concepçion is to inform yourself of the most immediate mode by which the crew of His Majesty’s ship Challenger can be transported by sea from the mouth of the river Leubu to Talcuhuana.

On your arrival at Concepçion, you will inform yourself of the probability of any man-of-war having been at Valparaiso at the time the news of our misfortune may have reached that place.

If, on mature consideration and inquiry, you see no hope of a man-of-war having it in her power to come shortly to our relief, you will proceed, in conjunction with the advice of any person competent to judge of the most ready means of chartering a merchant vessel, or secure a vessel calculated to come to the river Leubu without a moment’s delay, to embark the officers and crew, and such articles that may be saved from the wreck to the port of Talcuhuana.

You will arrange with the master of such vessel, and make all the necessary examinations as to the equipment of her sails and ground tackle, as well as soundness of hull, to answer the object in view.

It is to be expressly understood by the master of such vessel, that in conducting her to the river Leubu, he is to be subject to your sanction and control.

You will avail yourself of any opportunity of communicating with His Majesty’s Consul-general at Santiago as to the purport of your operations at Concepçion, for the information of the senior officer in the Pacific.

You will likewise take charge of certain despatches for the senior officer in the Pacific, and His Majesty’s Consul-general at Santiago, to be forwarded by the first opportunity from Concepçion.

1st June, 1835.

(Signed)    M. Seymour, Captain.

To Lieutenant Walter J. Collins,
H. M. Ship Challenger.

(Translation.)—H. W. Rouse.

British Consulate,
Molquilla, June 6th, 1835.

Sir,

The captain of His Britannic Majesty’s ship Challenger, wrecked on this beach, by letter dated yesterday has notified to me the necessity he is under of abandoning the hull and remaining property of the vessel referred to, in consequence of a conviction of being unable longer to protect them, or to transport them to the mouth of the Leubu, where he proposes to establish himself with his people and such effects as he may be able to transport, until an opportunity offers itself for embarking by sea.

He likewise desires me to beg you will take the steps most proper for doing what he is unable to do.

I therefore address you, requesting that if other points of service do not forbid, you will, in compliance with the instructions received from the military commandant of the lower frontier and acting intendant of Concepçion, station in the most convenient situation a force sufficient to protect the hull and remaining property of the vessel shipwrecked, until such time as the senior officer of His Majesty’s ships and vessels in the Pacific may have it in his power to adopt those measures most proper for the salvage.

I trust, also, you will be pleased to order inquiries to be set on foot whether there be any persons in the subdelegation of Arauco desirous of entering into an agreement for the salvage of the property in question; and that public notice be given throughout the whole subdelegation under your command, to make known, that those persons who may have it in their power to save the whole or any part of the property, and lodge it in a place of security, in order that it may be obtained possession of by any of His Britannic Majesty’s Consuls, will be indemnified with the part of salvage fixed by the laws of Chili.

In addition to what is already mentioned, I think to entreat your humane good offices in favour of the officers and crew, so that they may receive all possible protection during their forced residence at the mouth of Leubu.

With this view I have the honour to subscribe myself,

Your attentive sincere Servant,

(Signed)H. W. Rouse,

His Britannic Majesty’s Consul in the Province of Concepçion.

To the Military Commandant of
the Fort of Arauco,
Lieutenant-Colonel Geronimo St. Valenzuela,
now at Molquilla.

(Translation.)—H. W. Rouse.

Office of the Military
Commandant of Arauco,
Molquilla, June 7th, 1835.

Sir,

I have received your esteemed note of yesterday’s date, wherein you ask for a party of troops sufficient to guard the hull and remaining property of His Britannic Majesty’s ship of war “Challenger,” wrecked on these shores; that I inquire whether there be any persons inclined to enter into an agreement for the salvage of the useful parts of said ship, and that public notice be given throughout the subdelegation, in order that those who can save any articles, or the whole, by placing them in security, and that the Consul or authority of that nation may be able to dispose of them shall be indemnified according to the laws of Chili; and recommending the protection of the officers and crew who have removed, with what has been saved, to encamp at the mouth of the Leubu.

In reply, I say, that with regard to the first, I will believe both you and the captain of the vessel will do me and government the justice to be convinced, that it would be most satisfactory to be able to furnish at this point the party of troops asked for; but in this respect the thing is too impossible to be able to do it; by reason of the great distance of thirty odd leagues between the place of shipwreck and the frontier fort of Arauco; by reason of the isolated state of the spot, and its utter want of resources for sheltering the soldiers, and for keeping their arms and equipments fit for service; the vessel being wrecked on an open and bad beach, far from every point at which the soldiers could fortify themselves for their own defence, and for the safety of the vessel against the barbarous enemies; especially when you yourself have seen the official letter of the 3d instant, by which I am informed of the near approach of said enemies, in number 2600, to invade these frontiers. I might likewise observe to you, that the garrison under my command in Arauco only consists at present of ninety-nine infantry, six artillerymen, and three officers. In the fort you will have seen the totally ruined walls,—a consequence of the earthquake of the 20th of February last. To divide that small force for a long period to so isolated a spot, were to expose that force, and perhaps the whole subdelegation under my charge; and even supposing it were allowable to detach the whole force in defence and for security of the vessel, that force would always be very much exposed to a sudden misfortune from the enemies referred to (who are only distant a day and a half’s march from this place), without our obtaining the object we proposed. Add to which, that at this time of winter, the river swells to the greatest degree, and the roads become impassable between Arauco and this place, as you yourself will understand, since you have travelled over them in my company upon the present occasion, when they are still somewhat practicable.

With regard to the second, I have summoned the persons most proper for the object, and no one has been found daring enough to remain longer here, because they are aware of the severity of the season and the danger from the barbarians: and consequently, on no conditions will any one take an interest in the salvage of the remaining property of the vessel.

But with regard to the third, upon my return to the fort, I will take care to cause the public notice asked for to be circulated throughout the whole subdelegation.

With reference to your recommendation in favour of the officers and crew who have removed to the mouth of Leubu, I can assure you, that the most active steps will be taken for the benefit of the whole in the best manner possible, and, as you can testify, has been done up to the present moment; but for the reasons already stated, it were as well you reminded these gentlemen of the propriety of the greatest watchfulness in their new camp, to guard against the enterprises which might be meditated by the barbarians. I should, moreover, mention to you, for the information of the captain in question, that the intelligence I expect to be brought to me this day or to-morrow by two couriers I have sent to Tucupal, will decide whether I shall order an approach to be made to the before-mentioned encampment at the mouth of Leubu, where he proposes remaining, by a part of my troops, accompanied by the militia cavalry, hitherto occupied in conducting the cargo saved, with such more as it may be in my power to assemble. With this view, I repeat to you my greatest respect and esteem.

(Signed) Geronimo St. Valenzuela.

His Britannic Majesty’s Consul,
H. W. Rouse, Esq.

List of Officers on board His Majesty’s late Ship
Challenger.

Michael Seymour, Captain.
Hector Tause, First Lieutenant.
Walter J. Collins, Second Lieutenant.
William K. Stephens, Third Lieutenant.
G. A. Rothery, Supernumerary Lieutenant.
John M’Donald, Master.
J. P. Sarjeant, Purser.
John A. Mould, Acting Surgeon.
John W. Lane, Assistant Surgeon.
G. Horwood, Acting Second Master.
R. Hoops, Mate.
A. S. Booth, Mate.
R. C. H. Gordon, Midshipman.
F. Howard Vyse, Ditto.
Edward Crouch, Ditto.
Roger L. Curtis, Ditto.
James H. Luscombe, Ditto.
J. Jagoe, Clerk.
—— Fry, Supernumerary Clerk.
J. Parker, Master’s Assistant.
R. Read, Ditto.
L. W. Peyton, Volunteer.
G. F. Day, Ditto.
Alex. Barclay, Carpenter.
J. Walker, Gunner.
W. Warren, Boatswain.

THE END.

London:
Printed by A. Spottiswoode,
New-Street-Square.

FOOTNOTES: